If the flashing light is the sliding car icon, that shows the abs module has not been initialized.
All the trouble codes need to be cleared before it can be initialized. If you show any abs codes, post them so I can check the trouble chart.
You also need a fully charged battery OR a charger should be attached. Low voltage screws everything up that you are trying to do.
With the new module installed, ABS light is flashing and the sliding car icon is solid on. Before with the old module installed ABS light was solid on and the sliding car icon wasn’t illuminated, however ADVANCETRAC was (and still is) disabled with the service message.
I am at a different shop now who is attempting as we speak but they’re making me wait in the waiting room…is anyone here local to DC/MD/VA and has a scan tool? I have cash in hand if anyone is local and would be willing to try a diagnostic.
Mechanic is about to close and i do not have a sophisticated scan tool myself. I would honestly trust people on here than mechanic shops near me
Forscan on a windows laptop with do this. It is free and you can request a free license for 2 months to unlock the extra features allowing you to program. Yoh will need an elm327 dongle or obd2 cable.
Is that essentially a usb to obd 2 cable?
??? Not an expert on ABS issues, but it seems your approach to a solution may be a little off. If I had this problem myself, after I installed the used ABS module and still had warning lights, I’d take the car to a dealership so they could use their Ford specific pro-level scan tool to initialize whatever needs to be initialized. That seems to be the common sense next step.
Is there some reason you are avoiding this approach?
Yes, you will need an obd2 to usb with some electronics attached. Forscan has recommendations.
There’s an advert directly above MM’s post, shows a smiling couple in a romantic embrace, nice cottage, verbage says something to the effect of “for unlimited luxury”. I’m presuming wherever this unlimited luxury is located, there are no ABS modules … lol.
Dealership is probably gonna charge an arm and a leg so I’ll use them as a last resort. I will look into getting the adapter and/or read more about this. It’s not a super urgent issue because it doesn’t affect driving as long as I’m careful. If anyone else finds out anything please post it
My San Diego friend couldn’t pass their Calif emissions test b/c one of the readiness monitors wouldn’t complete. The emissions staff told them to “drive some more and come back next week”. They repeated that advice three times, still no joy, wouldn’t complete. So they took a couple days off work and drove to Las Vegas and back. Still wouldn’t complete. I advised them to take their car to a dealership and have them figure it out with their manufacturer’s specific scan tool… Fee was $300, but with 15 minutes shop effort, readiness monitor completed. Owner not happy at all, believed it unfair to have to pay $300 for shop work, when the only purpose was to monkey with their scan tool computer. Incident definitely made yet another opponent of the Calif emissions testing industry. But their registration had expired, would soon be getting tickets, so they had no choice. The moral of the story, sometimes, while its a bitter pill to swallow, you gotta do what you gotta do.
When the shops around here have any kind of problems with reprogramming anything, they call the Flasher.
Nothing like this in your area?
Tester