Bought my 2013 avenger new. Since last month the throttle body signal came on. I can’t accelerate. Then the check engine light comes on. I learned I can temporarily reset it by turning off the car then restarting. It gives me 3 minutes of driving before it returns. One bodyshop said I needed a new battery. I bought the battery and the issue was still there. Then they said I need a new throttlebody. I didn’t trust them anymore so I went to a dealership. The dealership hooked it to a machine and told me the car system just needed to up updated, and that they updated it for me and it was covered by warranty so it should be okay now. So I drove it home no problem and next day it all came back with same issues. They check it and said my throttle body is filthy and it needs to get a fuel injector to get cleaned and needs a new filter replacement and that might fix it-that or a new throttle body. The service advisor wasn’t confident in knowing what the issue is. My odometer is like 38,000 miles… anyone know what needs to be done? I’m broke and I’m tired paying money for things that doesn’t need to be done. Uploading…
Throttle body cleaning and air filter replacement are prety easy to do yourself. You need an old toothbrush, clean rag and a spray can of either carburetor cleaner or throttle body cleaner.
Remove the top of the air cleaner assembly (It should just unclip) then with a regular screwdriver, unscrew the hose clamp at the other end of the assembly where it goes into a round metal part and wiggle the assembly off.
The round metal part is the throttle body on the intake plenum. If it is dirty it will be black inside with soot and the round metal plate (The throttle) will be also. Spray inside with the cleaner. scrub with the toothbrush and wipe out with the rag.
Before putting it back together lift out the air filter from the bottom of the assembly you left in place and put in your new one/
The air filter, spray cleaner and a bottle of fuel injection cleaner (Chevron Techron is one good one) for the gas tank, can all be bought at any parts store.
"Since last month the throttle body signal came on."
Pardon my ignorance. I know what a throttle body is/does, but what’s a “throttle body signal” ?
The car’s computer must be storing at least one DTC (diagnostic trouble code). Is that the case? Do you know specifically which code(s) are involved?
P.S. I hope you misspoke when you said you are getting advice from a “body shop.” I would think you meant service/repair shop.
Also curious why you went to a body shop for a check engine light, assuming that’s a typo. … fyi, the throttle body is the part of the engine that hooks up to the accelerator pedal. And it can get pretty gunked up with use b/c the egr and pcv systems tend to hook in nearby, and gunk from those can stick to the backside of the throttle body valve area. Cleaning it might be a 1/2 hour job or a 4 hour job, depends on how easy it is to remove. On my Corolla I had to clean the throttle body one time for the same reasons, it is like a 1/2 hour job. On an Avenger, I’m thinking it might be more of a time burden. But the advice to clean it seems sounds for the symptom you are having. I’d go w/that idea. The throttle body gunking up doesn’t really correlate with the injectors gunking up, that’s a separate thing and unlikely at 38K. So I’d probably give the injector cleaning treatment a miss, and just clean the throttle body.
BTW, batteries can be tested using something called a “load test”. Unless you live in a location that gets really hot in the summer, where batteries can often be pretty much done in by the heat in 3 years, I’d have suggested a load test before replacing it. But that’s water under the bridge at this point, so focus on a clean throttle body. There’s a good chance that will fix what ails your avenger. Best of luck.
I believe this vehicle is drive-by-wire (no throttle cable) and has a dedicated electronic throttle error light on the dash.
What is/are the error code(s) that tripped the Check Engine light?
I have a 2013 Dodge Avenger with 70k that I believe could also have a throttle body issue, or even more than one issue…? I don’t lose acceleration power, though I have a hard time starting the car, once it’s started the vehicle power surges so my headlights/dash don’t work very well at night, but I don’t lose any power. I’d also like to add that once the car is off the headlights/dash no longer surge. When driving my speedometer will drop to 0 km/h (at any speed), but my rpm will remain the same and acceleration is still possible at the same time my dash lights up with the ebreak, abs, and traction loss lights. I took the car to the dealership where I bought it and was told that the speed sensor and emergency break sensors are not functioning properly and need to be replaced. I don’t have the money to pay a dealership so am wanting to do it myself if possible. Since being there my check engine light occasionally come on and my clock/radio completely shuts off. I feel like the problem is getting worse and that it isn’t just a sensor problem…any advice? Please help!!
How old is the battery? A failing battery can cause any number of electrical issues.