Called Auto Zone. He was very helpful. He said it was free of charge, but if there are specialty codes for the Jeep, their diagnostic system won’t be of much help.
The light for the ABS and traction control are still on. They haven’t gone off. The engine light which only came on after mechanic #2 changed the fuse, has now gone off. That thing has been going on and off for about three weeks. Call me crazy, but this all seems electrical. I know NOTHING of cars, but this Jeep is only four years old. It has 51,000 miles on it. There shouldn’t be problems with the engine, ABS, anti-traction system, AND the transmission. WHAT could cause all of these things to have happened all around the same time…other than my little man hitting that button.
True, marital harmony is important. That’s why when he asked me if we should take it to mechanic #2, I told him I trusted him to make the right decision. He was very respectful to ask me, considering I figured he’d made up his mind anyway. Haha
Is the ABS indicator light also something you are supposed to press to switch it on/off? Is it both a light and a switch then?
The check engine light … it isn’t that unusual for it to come on and off at 51,000 miles. It’s pretty difficult to tell why without having the codes read. It could be a faulty gasoline cap or a evap purge valve, but when you purchased the Jeep you purchased the diagnostic software that came with it, so since you paid for it, why guess, you may as well use it. A faulty transmission at 51K is a little unusual, but not unheard of. A lot depends on whether it has had the recommended routine maintenance on schedule, and the driving conditions. The tech at the dealership may have figured you’d not even read the invoice so why bother writing down what he found. Most people don’t read what they write on those invoices probably, as diagnosing and repairing cars is not something most people have any experience with. On an out of warranty 2010 though, I’d prefer to use an inde mechanic who specializes in Jeeps myself. Dealerships are more geared to warranty work, so their experience tends to focus on the most recent models.
GeorgeSanJose-No, the ABS light isn’t a switch…just a light.
Can’t seem to find an independent mechanic that specializes in Jeeps. I’d love that, but can’t find one! I read and ask questions about anything that’s going to cost me money.
Okay all you mechanics! I get in the car to take my daughter to piano lessons. The ABS and anti-skid light are still on. I get to the end of my driveway and BAM!! The lights turn off. The news isn’t over. I can tell there is a difference in the way the car is driving. That odd sound of the car like it was working a bit harder to accelerate is gone. The car is actually driving completely normal. So, what is the one thing that could have caused all of that? I know some of you said there was no relation to the lights and the car not accelerating properly, but the lights went out and the car was all good. I’m thinking it was an electrical issue. All I know is the first thing I did was thank God! If it was electrical, would any of you know specifically could have been the problem?
Bad or stuck trac control switch, or relay if applicable, maybe even connections that need to be cleaned. Don’t suppose you tried the rubber mallet suggested previously.
Just a guess, but with the car seemingly harder to accelerate, an odd sound when accelerating, and ABS/ESB indicator lights, perhaps a brake caliper may have gotten stuck. That in itself might turn on the ABS/ESB indicator. Or the heat from the brake being stuck could have heated up the wheel speed sensor enough to cause it to temporarily fail, which might well turn on the ABS/ESB indicator.
Hopefully the issue is solved. One thing you could do if it happens again, after a short drive, feel each wheel to see if one is much hotter than the others. Careful, if a brake gets stuck on, the wheel can get extremely hot.
Edit: Regarding difficulty finding an inde shop that specializes in Jeeps. You may well not be able to find exactly that level lever of specialization, but some inde shops specialize in certain makes, and won’t service other makes. Like a shop will do GM/Ford/Chrysler and Asian cars, but not European cars. There’s quite a bit of difference in the details of how different makes are serviced, and a lot of training needed in learning how to correctly service a particular make, considerable difference in the electronic diagnosis tools for each of the makes, so a shop that attempts to service any make you bring in, well in my opinion, that is spreading the butter a little thin.
Barkydog-No, I didn’t try the rubber mallet suggestion.
GeorgeSanJose-Well, all it took was driving the car later in the day for the lights and everything else to come back.
I’ll print out and highlight what you guys have said the issues could be. I have no doubt that the mechanic we are taking it to tomorrow wouldn’t like to be handed this, so the hubs and I will need to look over what you’ve said and memorize it. I hate not knowing or understanding my car!!
Thank you so much for all of your help.
It sounds like you have an ABS control module with an internal failure. It would help if you could provide the part number listed on your estimate, we wouldn’t have to guess.
As to the incomplete information on your invoice, I don’t know what system they are using but the old Reynolds & Reynolds software my shop uses only allows for 80 characters in the cause/diagnosis section and information gets chopped off. Sometimes the service adviser gets sloppy when typing in handwritten information into the computer.
These aren’t valid reasons to mistrust your first estimate. However, the mechanic that removed fuses and triggered the check engine light also charged you $40, is this good service?
Nevada_545 - Part number is 68067059AA
By the way…took car in to dealership and had them repair the ABS control module, as that was their diagnosis. Paid 500.00, got in the car and all was well. No lights and driving like a champ. Get one hour down the road and lights come on and starts struggling up slight inclines and hills and sounding like it’s working hard AGAIN.
Took it back to shop this morning and they look at it again. Tell us that it’s probably not the ABS control module. It’s probably this other thing now. They show my husband what it is. It’s on the opposite side of the ABS control module. They didn’t tell him what it was…just showed him where it was.
Then they told my husband that they were only going to charge us 100.00 more. I’m sorry, but we haven’t even had this Jeep Compass for four years. We’ve done nothing damaging to it. 600.00 in repairs? This all doesn’t seem right.
I feel that the dealership is just trying to do the best they can at this point. I’m thinking the real issue is this is a PROBLEM WITH MANUFACTURING. I called Chrysler and asked if this was a documented problem. They never would say yes or no…just kept deflecting. Telling me it had over 50,000 miles, so “these things just happen.” I’m not satisfied. Just contemplating what to do from here. Guys, please check out this and tell me if it sounds like this is what I’m dealing with:
Chrysler Group is recalling 91,559 model year 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee vehicles manufactured January 8, 2013, through August 20, 2013.
Due to a disruption of computer communications and loose alternator ground wires, the vehicles may experience random illumination of multiple instrument cluster warning lights, loss of cluster illumination and loss of anti-lock brake system (ABS) and electronic stability control (ESC) function.
A loss of ABS and ESC function reduces the driver’s ability to control the vehicle. Drivers would not be warned of brake system failures or any other failures which would be illuminated on the dashboard display. Either condition increases the risk of a crash.
FOUND THAT ON A CONSUMER AFFAIRS WEBSITE