Turned on the car and the ABS, TSC, and Brake lights stayed on. Checked the brake fluid and it looked a tiny bit low, added some DOT 3. The brake and TSC lights went off. The ABS light remained on. The next day, I read about a thing on YouTube to reset the ABS by turning the car to “on” (not the engine) and pumping the gas pedal 3 times. The ABS light remained on. I called the garage and arranged to go in for a yearly inspection and a look at the ABS. On my way over, the ABS light went off. Car passed inspection 100%. No lights on the way home. The next day, all three lights came on. Car is throwing codes: C0001-01-2B, C0020-71-68, C0082-48-2B, and C1109-64-60. Ultimately, they told me I would need a new ABS module, to start. Cost: $1300. They told me it would be okay to drive the car as the regular brakes were okay. I drove it for a while, trying to save for the repair. Twice now, the power steering light and the tire light came on, the tire light flashing. The power steering stopped working. My manual said to turn the engine off and back on see if the lights go away. They did, and the power steering returned to normal. It happened again a couple days later, and it took three restarts to reset. Could this be related to the ABS module problem, or could it be something new? Power steering fluid is ok. Do these problems seem like they could be caused by a bad ABS module? Thank you!
Each of these codes can be caused by a problem with the electrical harness(s)
Before replacing components, make sure this isn’t the case.
Tester
Yes, as it likely shares the electrical harness with the ABS unit. This is an electric hydraulic pump that powers the steering that may also need data from the ABS sensors to properly work. Maybe your mechanic does not understand this.
All the codes you posted are ABS/TCS codes related to a failed ABS module. The tire light flashing may indicate a failed TPMS sensor or complete failure of the electronic module reading the sensors. A scan tool should be able to identify this.
Given the electrical problems, the first place I’d start is to make sure the battery is in perfect condition. The next place is to check every ground to the chassis for corrosion.
This car uses an “indirect” TPMS system, it identifies a low tire based on wheel speed input through the ABS system. The flashing tire light is almost certainly related to the ABS troubles as well.
My bad, I didn’t check to see if there were TPMS sensors sold for this car.
+1 for checking, and maybe even replacing the car battery first.
Weird things happen when the car battery is about to die.
Thank you so much!
Thank you!
Many thanks!
Thanks for your help!
My brother also has a 2010 Mazda 3
It has a conventional TPMS system with sensors
I am reading that they are indirect but Rock auto and Napa both show many many direct tpms sensors in stock and ready to buy… lol… I am seeing mixed results… 
The best thing to do is to feel the rubber stem (or look at the end of the stem) by moving it a little to see of you can feel a sensor or not, unless it has the typical TPMS hex nut on it…
My brother’s 2010 Mazda 3 has these kind of TPMS sensors . . . no need to feel it.
Not disputing you in anyway,… Just trying to figure out what year it changed over…
I did find this…
According to the TIA relearn chart, for years 2004-2013 when the Mazda 3 was manufactured with a direct TPMS system, a TPMS relearn is recommended only when replacing a TPMS sensor. For years 2014-2019 when the was manufactured with an indirect TPMS system, a TPMS relearn or re-calibration is recommended when changing air pressure, rotating tires, and replacing a TPMS sensor.
Thank you all so much. I’m going to get the battery checked today, and try to have someone check the wiring harness and the other connections before I look to the ABS module again.
Ok, just checked the battery. It’s good.
Well look at that, I was wrong about something. If only that was the first time that happened…