Replaced throttle body, replaced fuel rail sensor it will not crank. It’s throwing no codes now.
Neither of those two components has anything to do with the car’s ability to crank.
is your battery any good . . . ?!
you need to get under the car with a multimeter and see if 12V is at the appropriate starter terminals when you turn the key to “start” position
“cranking” is that rrr rrr rrr sound you normally hear w/the key in “start”. Are you not hearing that sound? Do you hear anything at all with the key in “start”, like a click?
Fails to crank is usually one of these
- battery is not fully charged or faulty (often still hear a click)
- battery cables are loose or corroded connections (ditto about the click)
- faulty or mis-adjusted neutral or clutch safety switch (no sound at all)
- faulty ignition switch (may or may not have a sound)
- faulty starter motor (may or may not have a sound)
As posted above the throttle body and fuel rail sensor not related to the cranking function. If that work is involved it is likely that a change to the wiring harness was made for access purposes and they inadvertently forget to put it back as it was.
The best test for fails to crank imo is to measure the voltages at the starter motor during attempted cranking. Both the thick and thin wire should measure at least 10.5 volts with the key in “start”. Probe between starter motor connectors/lugs and the starter motor case.