You mean you’ve put in another starter but it still won’t crank? But it clicks? Could be a battery or battery connection problem, a degraded fuse or fusible link, or something in the crank signal path from the ignitiion switch. This will probably be simple to fix – by simple to fix, I don’t mean necessarily inexpensive to fix – once you identify the culprit. I think the quickest way to discover what’s wrong is to measure the voltage on both the thick wire and the thin wire going to the starter during attempted cranking. (Do this first next time you have this problem, it might save you the time of replacing the starter.) If both are 10.5 volts or above (leave them connected when you measure the voltages), then the new starter is faulty. It should crank if both are above 10.5 volts. If either is below 9.6 volts, it’s most likely an electrical problem ahead of the starter. There’s a slight possiblity the engine is locked up for some reason too. You can prove/disprove this by turning the crankshaft bolt with a socket wrench to verify it turns freely. Be sure to turn it in the right direction. If unsure about the starter, many auto parts places will probably have a jig that can bench test it for you.