Hi,
I just got the oil change, and the tec slip and the wrench touch the starter, postive and negitive ends. I have power every where but no crank to start. I had a new backup starter and replace it figure that it was shot but after gettin it tested its fine. I can hear the starter but i get no crank. Where do i look?
You mean you’ve put in another starter but it still won’t crank? But it clicks? Could be a battery or battery connection problem, a degraded fuse or fusible link, or something in the crank signal path from the ignitiion switch. This will probably be simple to fix – by simple to fix, I don’t mean necessarily inexpensive to fix – once you identify the culprit. I think the quickest way to discover what’s wrong is to measure the voltage on both the thick wire and the thin wire going to the starter during attempted cranking. (Do this first next time you have this problem, it might save you the time of replacing the starter.) If both are 10.5 volts or above (leave them connected when you measure the voltages), then the new starter is faulty. It should crank if both are above 10.5 volts. If either is below 9.6 volts, it’s most likely an electrical problem ahead of the starter. There’s a slight possiblity the engine is locked up for some reason too. You can prove/disprove this by turning the crankshaft bolt with a socket wrench to verify it turns freely. Be sure to turn it in the right direction. If unsure about the starter, many auto parts places will probably have a jig that can bench test it for you.
I think he means start when he says crank. So I think it cranks but won’t start. Clearly if the starter motor cranks/runs/whirs, its not the starter. Check all fuses, especially the one for the engine computer. Might have blown the computer out. The oil change place should be handling this though and have it towed to a shop for diagnosis.
They refuse to help but paid for it to be towed home. On the starter i get a range from 9.8 to 13.9 volts. Where is the ground located for the starter?
The starter case is grounded to the engine on almost all cars. Make a separate measurement between each starter terminal and the starter case, so you’ll end up with two measurements, both made during attempted cranking. Leave the wires connected to the starter. You may have to rig up some pigtails to allow you to do this. If both measurements are above 10.5 volts, and the starter doesn’t engage and crank, the starter needs to be replaced or repaired. Assuming the engine isn’t locked up for some reason; i.e. it turns freely.