I have one of those oddball 2009 Kia Borrego’s. The washer fluid tank suddenly quit working one day. Filled it with washer fluid and nothing. I checked the fuses from the following link:
I also checked my manual and found no blown fuse. I checked for power at the pump and got nothing testing it with a volt meter. Any suggestions?
Was the ignition on when you tested for power at the pump?
How did you check the fuses? Visual inspections are sometimes not enough. Best way I know is with a test light. Clamp it to ground then probe both sides of the installed fuse. There out to be current enough to light the bulb when the key is on.
There’s a computer involved with the pump motor. You press that button, and the computer detects the press and converts that to what’s called CAN data, which it sends to another module, and that module turns on a relay, which send battery power to the power terminal of the pump motor. The other terminal of the pump motor should be connected to chassis ground, so that’s something you can check with an ohm meter.
CAN is the name of the computer network used in cars. Sort of like LAN is the name for desktop computer networks. CAN defines the standard protocol for how the data is supposed to be interpreted by the various computers.
Both the front & rear pump motors’ power supply goes through a 10 amp fuse, so make sure both sides of that fuse are powered up with battery voltage when the pump motor is supposed to be able to work (usually that means the key is in the “on” position). Beyond that you’ll need help from a shop that has CAN-buss debugging capability.
There’s a customer interest bulletin btw on the ww pump system on that car. It’s about how the inlet screen can get clogged and what to do about it. You dealership can (no pun intended) probably provide you a copy. Ask about TSB BOD095.
If you discover you actually do have power to the pump motor, and you can hear it turn on , but it doesn’t squirt, that’s likely a clog somewhere. If it doesn’t turn on when powered up, either the motor is burned up (which you can tell by measuring its resistance) or it is stuck. I recently unstuck my Corolla’s ww pump motor using a waterpick device to clean it out and a few taps with a screwdriver handle to unstick the armature. Good idea to never let the bottle go completely empty, b/c for some reason that leads to the pump motor getting stuck.
Yes, I had my daughter turn the wiper/washer function on. Wipers worked, washer fluid did not.
I did do visual. I will try a test light.
I listened for a hum of a motor and did not here it. I found the one pump works both the front and back windows. The wires were a red, blue, and black going to the pump. I deduced the red was main power to the front, blue main power for the rear, and black as the common ground. I tried a volt meter on the red and black wires and got no voltage (i couldn’t find my test light but have since found it). And as for the dealership, I took my sunroof by for them and they had no clue as to how to work on it because it is a rare in the US car with very few sold, so I have little to no faith in the local dealership. I will try the test light again on the fuses and power lines and follow up, hopefully sooner than now. Working two jobs from 7am to 9 pm doesn’t leave a lot of time.
If there is just one pump it wouldn’t be possible to squirt the front and not squirt the back window. When you press the button both windows would get squirted. Is that the case w/your car? As I recall there are separate circuits for the front vs the rear window, but I suppose there could be two circuits but just one actual pump. Another possibility, there’s two pumps, but built side by side in one enclosure. Are you saying whichever end you try to use to squirt the windows, front or back, neither works? If so, verify the ww pump fuse is working. It’s the same 10 amp fuse for both front and back windows as I recall.