Honda pilot jerks when push gas pedal no engine light on
The problem might be with the Accelerator Pedal Position sensor.
Instead of a cable going from the accelerator pedal to the throttle body, your vehicle has a sensor at the throttle pedal, which sends a signal to the computer, and the computer operates the electronic throttle body.
When these sensors fail, they usually turn on the Check Engine light. But not always.
Good idea above. I had a problem like that on my early 90’s Corolla before, which turned out related to the throttle position sensor needing adjustment; but that didn’t fix the problem entirely. It also had clogged fuel injectors, which required an injector cleaning treatment. Electronic fuel injected cars will sometimes completely turn off the injectors when your foot is off the gas pedal (to improve mpgs), then when you slightly push the gas pedal they’ll turn the injectors back on again. If the injectors are slightly plugged the can go from no gas at all to too much all at once, and you’ll get a jerk. I tended to notice this more in slow speed neighborhood driving than higher speed driving. Adjusting the throttle position sensor and cleaning the injectors is the combo that did the trick, returning the Corolla to a smooth running machine.
I was thinking that I must be the throttle position sensor.because it only does it when the car gets warm.is there a way to test a throttle position sensor before I buy on
I was going down the road about 55 mph and the car is not shfting and I stopped and no reverse you think the transmission gone
Sounds like you need to solve a transmission problem first, as that might be the reason for the first symptom too. Start by checking the tranny fluid level. If that’s ok, take it to your shop for a proper transmission service, depending on the set-up, that usually means to drop and clean the pan, replace the filter, and re-fill with Honda fluid. Still not working correctly? You’ll need a well-recommended transmission shop’s diagnosis at that point. Might be a faulty solenoid, but more likely the clutches and seals are shot, requiring a complete rebuild or replacement.
Yes, there’s likely a way a diy’er can test it. You’d need a repair manual for the proper procedure. That sensor is often just a variable resistor, similar to how a volume control in a radio works, so the test is to measure the resistance at various throttle angles and compare to the spec. When you do this, watch for any signs the resistance is wildly jumping around with minor changes in the angle. You know how sometimes a radio volume control will go wacky like that, move it 1 degree and the volume doubles. Usually that means the wiper-contacts are corroded. LIke I mentioned above, the transmission problem seems like the higher priority.
Ok I went out checked my car and the car shifts and there is reverse again then when it warmed up it did it again. .I think it’s a sensor of so.e kind I leave out in the middle of no where I hope I can get it fixed
If the problem were bad clutches, the usual symptom is it works ok warm, but stubborn when cold. Since yours works better cold than warm, you are probably correct, an electrical or sensor problem of some kind.