@knfenimore I’m going to try to run some wires from the battery to the motor itself
@NyxieStix
A GM Technical Service Bulletin # 04-08-64-022, Written For GM Technicians To Assist In Fixing Customer Complaints Of Inoperative Left/Right Windows On 2004-2005 Chevrolet Colorado And GMC Canyon Models Only , Advises Technicians To Replace …
… the door glass with guides and possibly regulator/motors if damaged.
Since this bulletin is specific to your vehicle and your problem then perhaps it tells a story that cuts to the chase.
I wondered when you said that you could hear clicking in the doors… ?
Seems to me that the motors were powered.
Apparently GM had a problem with inoperative windows on these vehicles and I’m guessing the replacement parts have been revised, but I’m guessing.
CSA
The schematic you showed seems to be for the driver side door. You say you have power on the yellow wire so I suggest you verify the ground connection for the motor is ok. The black wire going to pin 5 of the connector for the door controller should tie to ground. To verify that, place the clip lead of the test light on the black wire contact and then touch the probe tip of the tester to the yellow lead. If the ground is good the light should turn on. If the light doesn’t work the ground lead is broken.
@Cougar I did the test method that you suggested, and I the light came on. So that rules out the ground to the switch right ?
@“common sense answer” thank you very much for that information, I will definitely look into that.
A Quick Google Search Turned Up Lots Of Hits On This. Some Claim That Disconnecting, And Reconnecting The Battery, After Half An Hour Fixes The Problem.
How is the operation of remote door locks? Some discussion indicates a problem with locks and windows both being inoperative.
Others have checked the battery voltage to find it’s low and when fully charged the windows/locks resume operation. Do you have a way to measure voltage?
Some blame a parasitic draw on electrical system. Original Delco battery? Does the battery appear to have been renewed?
CSA
@“common sense answer” I’ve tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, but not a half an hour I’ll try that. I have no issues with the power locks. The power mirrors, the speakers, and the door lights all work fine too. It’s only the passenger side front and rear power windows that are an issue.
You have verified that ground connection is good. About the only thing left to test, if the windows just aren’t jammed, is the circuit breaker inside the motor. See if applying power directly to the motor connections makes the motor work. I think you will need to apply positive voltage on the brown wire and negative voltage on the other one to make the window go down. Reversing the polarity will make the motor go in the opposite direction.
Great work so far. I thought perhaps a primer on reading schematics would help? I’m unable to get the schematic to print onto one page, but here’s some basics.
The schematic shows only one side of the circuit. The return sides is the car’s body, and that’s shown by the little antenna-looking thing on the bottom, called a “common ground”, or a “chassis ground”.
The rectangles with the longer dashes are enclosures. In this schematic, you have the fusebox, the Body Control Module (BCM), and the door lock and window switch control module.
The little boxes in the relays with the X’s in them are relay solenoids. The dashed lines are meant to show that they’re mechanically connected to the relay contacts.
The lines with the short dashes are mechanical connections. If a switch activates more than one set of contacts, there’ll be a line set for each circuit and a dotted line to show that they’re mechanically connected. The switch closes more than one set of contacts.
If you follow the UP and DOWN circuits to the left, you’ll find they go to the DOWN relay and UP relay, depending on which way to activate the switch. All relays are shown in their deactivated positions. The motor is a reversible DC motor, which means that it can be operated in one direction for UP and the other for DOWN depending on the direction of the current flow.
The wire colors at the connectors are indicated by the YE (yellow), D-GN (dark green), TN (tan), PU (purple), etc.
Much of the rest is self-explanatory.
With a set of different colored highlighters, you should be be able to trace out each circuit.
I hope this helps. Please, others here feel free to check my work. I’d hate to pass on an error.
One suggestion: request a “wiring diagram” from the dealer’s parts guy. That’ll show you where the actual wires are and clarify the connectors and routing. It goes hand-in-hand with the schematic. You can correlate the connector references on the schematic with the connectors on the wiring diagram.
@“the same mountainbike” thank you very much for the detailed explanation. It is very helpful!
you have a crew cab right?
You say you hear the clicking when you press a switch but no window movement.
If all you have is a noid light, then clip one end to a bare metal chassis part like a bolt head in the door frame.
Connect the other end to the yellow wire at the door module. If the lamp illuminates, move to next step. Otherwise, make sure key is in RUN position and interior courtesy lights are on indicating the module should have power. If that checks out, try to find a better ground point for your diagnostic lamp.
Move diagnostic connection from yellow wire to the dark blue wire terminal of the motor connector.
Press the UP button. You should hear the relay click and your diagnostic lamp should illuminate.
If the relay clicks but the lamp does not illuminate, trace the dark blue wire back to the control board to make sure it is not cut.
You can repeat the previous step using the tan wire in the motor connector and pressing the corresponding DOWN button.
If the relays click and the lamp also illuminates, something is wrong with the motor or the window mechanism is jammed.
If the relays click, neither motor connector pin has power and the wires look good back up to the control board, then perhaps both relays are shot although that would be rare…
@TwinTurbo I tried the method that you suggested. I have power at the switch, but not at the motor connector. I’m trying to chase the wires, but I’m having issues with that. I can’t find them once they enter the frame.
Hmmm, the posted schematics would lead one to believe that the control boards were right near the work area (e.g. by the switch panel). When you hear the relay click, can you tell where that is coming from?
BTW- what wires were chopped off that you reconnected?
In my chevy evidently the circuit boards are under the switches, and prone to water damage failure. You can swap drivers and passengers if so equipped, and see if it makes any difference. New board may be a dealer programming visit, have read up to the tune of $200 for the programming.
You are on the track OP. I like the idea or running a wire directly from the battery to one of the motors as an experiment. It would be a good idea to insert a fuse into this wire near the battery as a safety precaution.
Another idea, since you can hear clicking in the doors that means some power is getting there at least. If you had a bad ground connection for the motor, this symptom could result. look at the bottom right hand corner on the schematic, see the reference to a ground connection? See if you can chase that wire out, and make sure it is a solid rust-free connection to the chassis.