2000 Honda Accord shaking problem


#1

I have a 4cl- 2000 Honda Accord about 160,000 miles on it. I have been having a shaking problem with my engine when it starts up after warm. If I drive more then 20 minutes, stop my car, to say go run an errand, and then come back and turn it on, it shakes and sometimes stalls out. I notice that the RPMs don’t go above 1000 and waiver below that. When I do get it going, I have to tap on the gas a bit to get it to regulate. On longer drives after I stop it, it won’t start and have to leave it sit for about 20 min. and then get it started by tapping the gas.

The check engine light that did come on has been checked as a cylinder 2 misfire. Sometimes it will flash and sometimes it will not come on.

I have new wires and spark plugs. A 3 year old timing belt. No vacuum leaks or gas line leaks. (all been checked by a mechanic)

Does anyone have an suggestions of what it could be? I’m lost and so are the mechanics I take it to.


#2

Has anyone pulled the #2 injector and checked it? I would also check/clean the idle air control valve (IAC).


#3

First I’d try replacing the #2 plug. I know you said that they are new, but maybe # 2 was bad from the package. Then I’d run some sea Foam thru the fuel system in case the injector is dirty.

The IAC would not account for the shaking or missing. It would just not idle at the right level.

Yosemite


#4

My next step was to check the IAC valve.

I will also check the #2 plug.

I have done the sea foam already and it made a difference maybe for a couple days, but then went back to doing the same thing.

Keep the comments coming. I will repost when I check those two things. Thank you!


#5

Did you change the cap and rotor on the distributor? While Accords of this vintage are known for the whole distributor going bad this doesn’t sound like what is happening. Since you have new plugs and wires I would vote for the cap and rotor being bad.


#6

When you pull the #2 plug, swap it with another plug and clear the code and see if the miss moves to that cylinder with the old #2plug.
If it does follow the plug then it’s a bad plug.

Yosemite


#7

Alright, so I replaces the cap and rotor distributor and the thermostat. The cap and rotor were a bit worn down and the thermostat was just looking ugly. So as of right now, my car is running great. I will see as I drive it longer if it officially did the job!

Thanks for all your input!