my windstar blew fuse #16. replaced soon. blew again, replaced again. now theft light blinks rapidly and won’t even crank over. left switch on long enough to get a code reading from the light, it comes up to # 15. can anybody help with this problem? thanks MOPAR 64
Mopar 64,
Fuse 16 is for the Instrument Cluster and the REM module… The cluster is part of the PATs system (Passive Antitheft). Because the Cluster is offline, the security handshake cannot be made between the PCM and Cluster, preventing the vehicle from starting.
The REM module controls things like the rear tail lamps, Power sliding doors, rear locks, liftgate, aux climate control. Shut those systems off, replace the fuse, and see if the fuse blows again (without activating those systems)… If ok, activate each system one at time and look to see if and when the fuse blows… If the fuse blows when the rear climate system is engaged, then you know where you need to start looking for shorts. If the fuse blows immediately, then you will need to isolate the REM and Cluster, and retry.
Not sure how deep you want to get with this issue yourself. You will have some disassembly to do to begin isolating the circuits.
jgree142
I found this on the internet, I made this repair fuse no longer blows
Although the fuse was blowing (not instantly) the car still started and ran but when you shut it off head lights would come on. Light started rapidly blinking after i unhooked battery cables and put a amp gauge in line between cable and pos post.to see with switch off how many amps were being pulled (because this is a hot line all time) about 10amp for a short time then dropped to 0. hooked cables back up and this is the problem that occurred (the not starting)
There is a technical service bulletin from Ford and here is the fix. Fuse # 16 is blown therefore the ignition off signal is not being sent to the front end module. Pin # 11 (Windstar wiring diagram) on wiring harness C-239 is shorted. The diagram will show you where the wire goes to a front harness on the fuse box from the back of the instrument cluster. I simply cut the wire at both ends and ran a new wire. I have a 1999 Windstar- hope this helps. I spent 2 weekends looking for this and finally figured it out- cost nothing to fix and only took about 30 minutes. It did take me about 3 hours to put the car back together though.
Good Job
jgree142
thanks but not such a good job now it wont start is there any reason that i would be getting a code 15 from the theft light could i of erased the memory in any way? thanks again
Chances are that the main power wire for the REM that runs under the carpeting front to rear is chaffed. I can’t tell you how many I’ve repaired due to this issue.
pete peters
thanks i will defintley check that next, is that under drivers side or passenger side ?
The power wire running the REM is white/yellow. Pin 10 at connector 219 fuse panel. On the other end it will be pin 3 at connector 343 at the REM. instead of trying to peel back carpeting and trying to locate the problem area, I will cut the wire at both ends and run a new one.
pete peters
sorry it took so long to respond, well there was no power getting to the rem so i ran a tempoary fused wire from battery and it still does the same thing what would you think i should do next besides scrap it. thanks
I am not sure what is happening but I would try doing as @pete peters suggested.
I am assuming that the PATs (antitheft) lamp is still flashing? I understand that you ran a new pwr circuit from the Battery directly to the REM… I can only assume that the new installed fuse is good. What is the condition of fuse 16? (If you only ran the power to the REM, the cluster would still be on fuse 16) If fuse 16 is blown, the cluster logic will not function properly and antitheft will be affected.
Let us know the states of fuse16 and the fuse to the REM.
Just a little more work and I think you got it. Let us know
Hello everyone
Well weather a little warmer so I went back out to check the van, The lamp is still flashing, fuse 16 is good, checked power at cluster from that circuit, it's good, As I stated earlier, I did the repair on replacing the wire to the cluster on pin 11 from the fuse block, checked power from fused line I ran to rem ,it is also good (aprox 12 volts) Although the original power wire from pin 10 c219 to the rem pin 3 c243 is still intact as far as to where I cut it off at the rem It is showing about 3 to 4 volts I checked all the power grounds at the rem, they checked out fine, What do you think next move should be? One other thing I left the battery hooked up the other night later that night I noticed that the tail lights were on and the head light switch was off.Thanks to everybody for your help.Hello Again
Still need help after checking and repairing shorted, burnt wires on floor between front seats i still have a no start issue and theft light still blinking rapidl. if left on long enough it flashes code 15. ?? i purchased the shop manuals off ebay performed what tests i could with a mulity meter no luck i need this vehical but on a fixed income tking it to a ford garage is not a option.
thanks again for your helpHey… Anyone know more about this… I am emotionally invested in figuring this rapid blink out on my 2000 lol
Suggest to post the appropriate section of the wiring schematic, expect then you might get some ideas from posters here.
Do you really think this person has a wiring diagram for this 23 year old vehicle ?
If anyone is going to muddle through Ford wiring I strongly suggest buying a Helm manual for the model in question. They are laid out with easy to follow current flow charts and are invaluable. I’ve purchased several Helm electrical manuals for my Fords off of eBay at great prices. The elec/vac manual for my Lincoln was like new and a paltry 15 dollars + 7 for shipping. Scrap paper price…
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