Hi,
You guys were great with my last F-150 issue when the fuel pump went belly up intermittently so here’s the latest with my truck as it enters it teenage years. The other day the drivers power window wouldn’t go down. When you depressed the switch you could hear the relay click but the window stayed put without the motor trying to run. The passenger side operated normally. Today, the drivers window operated normally. Looking in the owners manual there is a “One Touch Power Window Relay” only the drivers window is one touch. There doesn’t appear to be a power window relay other than the one touch relay. Since the passenger window operated, and there is just one fuse for the windows could this relay be only for the drivers one touch feature and the other window doesn’t use a relay? Swapping the relay would certainly be the cheapest alternative to try. I haven’t gotten down to look in the fuse panel to see if this relay is identical to any of the other relays in the panel to try a swap out.
It is a Lariat, extend cab, 4.6l V-8 with about 77K original miles, I’ve owned it since new and it has never been in an accident.
Well today it wouldn’t go down again so I pulled the relay and the passenger window still worked so that relay is only for the auto down feature on the drivers door. It was the same type as #5 the ACC delay relay so I swapped it and still the same. I guess I’ll need to pull the door panel off and see if I’m getting power to the motor.
I had the same problem with my 2006 Lariat. The switch contacts were pitted. I took it apart and cleaned them with fine sandpaper, put it back together and it works fine now. I’ll bet yours uses the same switch. There are several vids on YouTube for doing that. There is too much current going through the switch, for the particular design of the switch, so mine will foul up again and I’ll replace the switch next time. I think it is $35 from Ford.
Benny,
Thanks, when I have a chance I’ll pull the door apart and check the switch.
To remove the switch, you simply pull up on the edge of the trim piece it is mounted to. It comes out fairly easily and should take less than a minute to completely remove the switch. I have a '98 F-150 but have had no such problems with it. Just balky lock actuators.
Also look at the wire bundle inside the rubber boot that runs between the door and the door jamb at the hinges.
Since the drivers door is the one that gets the most use, over time opening and closing the door flexes the wires inside the boot where a wire gets flexed to the point where a breaks. So sometimes you open and close the door and the window works because the broken wire is touching. And other times you open and close the door and the window doesn’t work because the broken wire isn’t touching.
Tester
Follow up - it appears to be the switches. I found a video on youtube with this very problem. The switches get carboned up from arcing. I cleaned them and they worked for a while but I think I’m going to have to bite the bullet and get a new set.