Hi, I have been having problems with my drivers side power window on my 06 Ford F-150. At first, it would roll down, but wouldn’t roll back up, so I replaced the switch. After replacing the entire power window control switch, if you push the switch for the drivers window down, it will start to go down, then stop, and you have to press it about 20 times to get it all the way down. You can definitely hear the switch clicking off. All the other windows work perfect. I took it to get the oil changed and asked about it, and they said to change out the regulator, which I did, but the same thing happens. I checked the fuse and that was fine. Is there a relay or something I should check? I’m not too familiar with the truck, but I would really appreciate any advice or help. Thank you!
You need to check the wiring that goes into the door. opening and closing can cause broken wires.
You may need a better ground between engine and body, so check the negative battery cable. If your Ford is like many previous Fords there may be a lug on the cable that attaches to the body. You may have to remove the bolt and clean the connection up. The ground from the door to the body may need improvement too.
Possibly the window motor on the way out. Nylon gears and with some age the grease used to pack those gears fossilizes and takes on the texture of dried plaster.
An ammeter could be used to determine the current draw of the driver side motor against one of the lesser used window motors. Odds are the numbers on the driver door would be much higher.
If the other windows work and you replaced the switch, then it’s probably the motor. You could lube the regulator and see if it helps.
These Ford trucks have had problems with wiring through the door jamb breaking and working intermittently. I’ve repaired several. You need to peel back the rubber protector to find the break. I will cut out the damaged part of the wire and splice in some 14 ga. wire, about a foot’s worth, for extra slack. I also inspect all the other wires for signs of damage and fix those, too.
Hi everyone, thank you so much for the input. I just wanted to say I replaced the regulator and the motor, replaced the switch, and checked all the wires in the door jam. The regulator, motor, and switch are all brand new. I noticed on the switch that when I hold it down, that is when it shuts off, but if I press the drivers switch all the way to the auto roll down feature, then it rolls down perfect. I THINK maybe I got a defective switch, so I reordered another switch, which will be here tomorrow. Does anyone have any other suggestions, or does that sound like a switch issue? Again, thank you for any help.
This truck should have a One Touch module on it. Maybe there’s an issue with the module or programming. I’ve got a schematic in my stash somewhere for the OT module. I’ll take a look at it tonight and try to see if there is something there that could be of any help. Will be back later.
The schematics I have do not cover your truck but assuming Fords use a similar system the drivers window motor does work partially through the One Touch module.
The motor has yellow and red leads which reverse polarity depending on up or down. The red is shown to run through the OT module which is a solid state unit. Window motor current is a lot to run through a small solid state module and modules of any type can be problematic when a larger amount of current is involved.
Possibly a test light could be used on the motor connector wiring while operating the window to detect if power is being lost through one lead or the other due to the intermittent operation of the window. I’d say if the red is intermittent there may be a problem with the module.
If I had this problem I’d be inclined to remove the motor from the window-ass’y, but keep it attached to the wiring harness, and see if it works on it’s own, when you press the button on the door. Divide and conquer by temporarily removing the window and its workings as a potential cause.
Well, I got the new switch today, put it in, and it works like normal again. I guess the last switch I got was faulty. Thanks for everyone’s input. I really appreciate the help!
Thanks for the update. Glad you got working windows again. It isn’t that unusual for DIY’er to get defective parts. I think part of the reason for this is when the big box parts stores have a return, they just put it back on the shelve. So the same defective part keeps getting sold, returned, and resold. Again and again. I wouldn’t be at all surprised that defective switch of yours in now back on the shelves, waiting to be sold again.
The parts vendors that sell to auto shops, they are probably more circumspect about this, as if they send a bad part over, and it causes the shop to loose 2 hours of unbillable time, they’ll get major complaints from the shop owner and if it happens more than once, they’ll lose the shop’s business.
Great that it’s the switch and not the OT module as a new one could possibly be hard to find and/or pricy.
It’s also possible that the switch you got may have been a faulty switch from someone else’s vehicle which they palmed back off onto the parts store or department.
With electrics it can be impossible or nearly impossible to determine if a part has been in use or not.
There’s a number of people out there who will buy a part from AutoZone or whomever, install the new part, and return the old one as “defective”; getting them the part and money back both.
People pull this crap every day on Wal Mart, K-Mart, and almost every other retailer on the planet.