Where can I get a color coded wiring schematic for a 1997 Chevy Pickup? I can turn my blinkers on with the key off. But that changed, now I can not get the blinkers to come on at all. The flasher is good. The turn signals and the back-up lights are on the same circuit. The back-up lights work. I checked the fuse relay box under the hood–all good. Could the lever (for blinkers, cruise control,and wipers) be shorted out? First to allow the blinkers to come on with key off? And then no blinkers at all, not even blinker illumination with no flashing? Or, worst of all, the wiring harness has failed. Any good advice or prior experience? Oh and one more question: do the shops and dealerships have electronic trouble shooting eqipment that will identify a faulty electronic part (blinker lever) or bad wiring?
These vehicles have a multi-function turn signal switch that is prone to malfunction. You can also lose the brake lights when the turn signals fail to function. You will need to see a good mechanic to have it replaced since the airbag system is involved. It’s not a DIY project.
Thank You Much! The air bag system is an excellent point.
The multifunction switch is problematic, I’ve already replaced one on a 2000 Blazer. Try spraying some CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner into the base of the switch on the steering column to clean the switch contacts. This got the switch working for a few days on the Blazer. It wasn’t a permanent fix, but it verified the multifunction switch was the problem.
Check the NHSTA website for recalls for your truck.
There was a recall on the Hazard switch for the Blazer that was already done before I got it. However the procedure for replacing the Hazard/Multifunction was an attachment to the recall listed. I was able to replace the switch using the procedure.
Ed B.
The piece of “diagnostic test equipment” that may be present at a garage be it Dealer or Independant is a known good T/S switch.
You don’t need to dissassemble much at all to make this test as there is very good access to the multi pint connectors used for T/S’s at the base of the colum. Just unplug the old and “stub” in the new. Don’t expect the parts source to give you your money back if your “stub in” test indicates no failure with the switch.
One of the first signs I can remember reading at the parts store was “no returns on electrical items”. This is pretty funny as it was common for the parts department to allow mechanics to borrow items like switches and relays, and then return them. It is a very good idea for a mechanic to have an assortment of switches and such to stub in.
too bad about that airbag. Because the problem with these mutli-function switches is that the copper contacts get dirty, and then they don’t conduct. They are easy to clean if you can get at them, but you do not want an airbag to deploy on you for more reasons than one. Have the pros replace the switch with a new one that will also go bad after ten years.
Do you guys know how many fumble fingered, completely clueless individuals have removed airbags without isssue? (well I will tell you, there are legions). The manufactures CYA warning has been taken too far here.
The only ones I saw go off that were not involeved in an accident were the ones we set off our selves, and they need a correctlt cabled 12v battery to get going.