This is a brand new distributor all in one assembly, so the coil came with it.
OH ! Excellent… I could’ve sworn that year was a separate unit… So… I am pleasantly mistaken then.
Very good… Proceed then…
Well I’m back to square one because I installed it and still no start.
NO WAY JOSE!! Say it ain’t so ! OK did you do the starting fluid trick as well this time? What occurs?
Also… Is your fuel pump priming upon turning the key to run? You should be able to hear it clearly when it is quiet. Did you test the fuel pressure at the rail…or at least determine the rail is actually pressurized.
You can also rig the fuel pump to run constant as well… just as a test. That fuel pump must prime upon key on engine off… 2 second prime and then it waits for a tach signal to run constant.
I think something simple is being overlooked at this point that Accord of yours wants to run… and I honestly have not met the Honda I could not get running, no matter what the cause or even after a complete engine and or ecu swap… No Honda has ever not driven away under its own power. This is not bragging, its simple fact. They want to run, all you need to do is provide the ingredients and not overlook any.
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Good idea, the starting fluid again. 
I sort of forgot that we still may not have fuel since we started looking at spark.
Also, I’d like for Derrick to look at the spark again. See if the new dist changed anything.
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Ok I’ll try the starter fluid again tomorrow. I did a fuel pressure test and there seems to be fuel getting through.
Understood, you’d think the starter wouldn’t be the issue if it’s newish.
But…who knows? We’ll find out eventually when you get it sorted out.
It’s possible to have spark, fuel pressure, and injector pulsing and the engine won’t start. 4 common ones are
- poor cylinder compression
- spark timing far from the top of the compression stroke
- exhaust system clogged
- cylinders are wet w/fuel from prior testing, flooded
For the first one, measure the compression. Normal will be in the 160-180 range. Anything below 130 psi is suspect. For the second one remove the spark plugs and bring the number one cylinder to TDC of its compression stroke. You can feel the compression blowing air out of the spark plug hole. At TDC compression the distributor rotor should be pointing at the number one spark plug wire. For the third, remove the pre-cat O2 sensor. This will bypass any exhaust system clogs, done only as a test. For the fourth one, remove the spark plugs. If the tips are wet w/fuel, let the engine sit a couple of days with the plugs removed. This will allow the fuel to evaporate from the cylinders.
Before doing any of the above, verify again you actually have good spark and fuel pressure, and the injectors are being pulsed.
I got a test light to use on the injectors and if I’m doing it right, it appears that I don’t have any power going to them.
Double checked the fuel injectors and they for sure do not have power. Also checked the power going into the Fuel injector resistor and nothing. Swapped the ECUs back and same issue so it doesn’t appear to be tied back to the ECU.
Someone suggested the timing belt may have broke so I took the dist. cap off and the rotor is turning:
I called it a day before I could do anymore troubleshooting.
Its times like this that I wish I could Teleport over to somewhere to help someone… Because I would.
Its difficult for me to try to type my thought process over to you… I go through many many scenarios rapidly…and test those theories rapidly… because I have been doing this my entire life. But its near impossible for me to write that sorta thing to you…
If you have no power to your injectors… look at your PGM/Fi relay… thats its job
Yeah, I know it’s tough without seeing the car in person. That’s why I try to post videos to see if that helps.
Regarding the PGM relay, that was one of the first things I replaced, it’s brand new.
Understood… remember what I said about verify verify verify? in one of my hair brained posts? When I install a new part, I know what it does and how it goes about things… I also verify its doing those things.
Granted i am not a beginner by any measure, but I continue to admire your gumption… reminds me of someone I know rather well.
Pull that new main relay…have it plugged into the vehicle…but dangling… hold in your hand and turn the key to on/run… do you feel it click? Do you hear your fuel pump prime… this is very important.
I used a test light on it this morning and it has power going in and out where it should. It also clicked when ignition placed in ON position and fuel pump buzzed for a few seconds.
Excellent… Your injectors are now waiting for a ground pulse from the ecu… The emanates from a combo of the ecu and distributor. Crank sensor is for spark indication.
For S%$#s n Giggles… Yank your distributor turn your key to run… and spin the distributor shaft…
You will actually be able to hear your injectors pulse…
Tho I dont remember it as such…your vehicle is actually quite old at this point… and somehow it has taken me along with it.
Remember that Actron Sensor tester I mentioned? It would be a powerful friend at this point in time. Hell if you were next door I’d have given it to you already. Its old school… but its the Bee’s Knees in testing stuff on an older vehicle.
Wish you had one and or wish I onsite with you… Where are you in the USA anyway… near Philly? If so… I will come help you. I doubt you are, no one seems to be on here but I digress…
Folks, I’m happy to say that I got it started! The power wire to the fuel injector resistor box is faulty somewhere. So I ran a new wire direct from the main relay to the resistor to test and it fired right up!! Thanks everyone for your help!!
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That’s awesome! 
Thanks for letting us know the outcome.
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Thanks! I’m glad to be able to provide a positive update.
That’s great man… We all had you sniffing around in important places…
But it was you who fixed it… Feels good no?
Very well done indeed, if you enjoy this sort of thing you seem to have the “whatitakes” to be a good troubleshooter.
Bravo
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Thanks and yes it does feel great!