2009 Honda Weird Start Issue

If someone can help. I am having a very weird issue that no one is able to diagnose.
My Honda is giving start issue, already happened 2 times. After driving for about 30-40 miles, I stopped for few minutes on my way, and car will not start. Then I pressed-release the brake peddle (just by chance) , and tried to start again and it started.
First time it happened was about 2weeks back, then no issue. Then, against it happened today morning. Stopped on my way to work, tried to start the car, no response, pressed the brake peddle and attempted to start, it started and running fine.

Got batter checked, oil changed just 3 weeks back, transmission oil changed about 10k miles, no other issue, speed is fine, no noise from engine. Confused and do not know whom to show and get it fixed. If any suggestions, please post.

If the check engine light is on or even if it isn’t, take it to an independent auto repair shop. Look for well rated, busy shops. It may be the crankshaft position sensor failing.

Since you posted nothing about the car except that it is a 2009 Honda Accord, I’d guess you are not a do it yourself mechanic.

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When it doesn’t start, does it still make that “rrr rrr rrrr” cranking sound with the key in “start”? Just doesn’t catch and run? Or does it make no sound at all with key in “start”, except maybe a click?

In any event, this is usually a relatively simple thing for an experienced shop tech to diagnose what’s causing it. Has such a tech actually seen the car when this is happening?

I am quite handy, but not with the car other than some basic maintenance.
I have 110k on the car and it’s accord EX and 2.4L engine.

I do not remember if it made a click or ‘rrrr’ noise, but I think it was ‘rrrr’, so I am assuming not a starter issue. Got battery checked from a shop, though 5year old but it’s in good condition.

Both the times this issue happened on the road, so tech was not able to diagnose the issue. Engine light is not on.

How do you know the battery is in good condition? If you haven’t had it tested, get that done. I’ve had two Accords (2005 and 2017) and I replaced the batteries about every four years because they failed. Heat in the engine compartment is the reason and if you live in a hot area a four year battery life is not unusual.

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Hi,

I got my battery tested at local Walmart as it’s under warranty, they ran a full scan and it’s in good condition.
If battery will be an issue, car will not start at all. In my case, it’s starting fine after the issue.
I also bought a backup jumpstart, but jump start was not required.

Another for possible crank sensor if hard to start after heating up and no codes
 But also check for pending codes


Hi,

I again got battery checked from auto zone.

As per them my battery is very hot 158 F, and alternator ripple voltage is 18.0V, should not be greater than. 0.5 V

Any thoughts

Your car’s electronics need a steady power supply voltage, can’t be expected to run well with that much alternator ripple. Most likely a faulty alternator, but could be a poor connection from alternator to battery. The battery load on the alternator helps to reduce the amount of ripple.

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Were Honda PGM-FI (fuel pump) relays still a thing in 2009?

The diodes in the alternator have failed.

Replace the alternator.

Tester

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If you can do without it for a few days, take it to an auto electric shop. They can probably diagnose and repair it. You will have an OEM quality alternator. They are often of better quality and reliability than some of the aftermarket new or rebuilts.

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I had a bad sense wire to my alternator and I got a 2nd used one for cheap. I then took it to elec shop and asked if they could test it and see what’s up. Turns out alt was fine. But they rebuilt it. And gave me bill for $240. Not sure what they replaced on a working alt.

It would cost a hell of lot more for me to remove, disassemble, reassemble, and reinstall an alternator, than to remove the old and install a new one out of the box.

Tester

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No doubt. My advice was to the home mechanic.

OP doesn’t sound like a home mechanic to me.

Tester

Wear items: brushes, bearings, diode rectifier/voltage regulator. You should have had this done years ago when they would perform an hour of bench work for $5. Maybe you will get a time machine for Christmas.

I told shop to test it. And left. They called me next day and they were done. Bill was xx. I never told them to rebuild it.

Sigh. Not much more you could have done. At some point an auto-electrics customer pretty much has to trust the vendor to do, and only do, what you ask them to do. You can’t be expected to deliver certified, notarized instructions, with a verification copy to a third party. If they don’t follow your verbal instructions, the only practical recourse is to use a different vendor the next time, and relay your findings about that particular vendor to anyone else who asks for shop recommendations. On the vendor’s side of this miscommunication, $240 for an oem quality rebuilt alternator is still a good value.