Big Update
Okay so, I was doing the screwdriver test with the fuel injectors; listening for the constant ticks, as we were trying to crank the car, but suddenly, the car started! the idling was really rough, but it stayed on. I drove it, and i made sure to have taken it easy, and it seems that there’s still that lack of acceleration and power, but the gears don’t slip like they used to ( i need to drive it more to 100% confirm this). One other thing i noted is that if i’m going about 5 mph and i release the gas pedal completely, there’s always a quick boost of speed for just a second.
Moving on, i connected the Fuel pressure gauge to the fuel line and then turned the key to “on” when i read the gauge, it read 10 PSI just like earlier, but when i tried to start the car like this, it started with no trouble at all, then the gauge read about 35 PSI and it remained steady, But when i turned the car off, the PSI slowly increased up to 40 PSI and right now it looks like it slowly and steadily decreasing. Does anyone have any ideas now that the car can start along with these pressure readings?
Another note:
While the car is on, everything under the hood gets really really hot very quickly even though coolant is to the appropriate fill level. Maybe it’s because it’s hot outside, but I’m unsure…
I still recommend replacing the fuel filter. After that the fuel pressure should instantly go up to full unregulated pressure with key on. You should be able to find what spec is online. It’s okay for pressure to drop slowly after pump stops running. There are specs for that as well. If after changing filter the pressure doesn’t instantly shoot up, you need to look for other possible restrictions. If no restrictions replace pump. I’m betting on bad filter hopefully.
Edit: if you get to the point of replacing the pump, make sure you check for battery voltage at the pump and check ground.
Yes, the fuel filter needs to be replaced and hope that the pump has not been damaged because of a plugged filter. A plugged filter over time is rough on the fuel pump.
When the key is first turned on the pump pressure should hit normal in a couple of seconds. After a few seconds (without cranking the engine) the pump will shut off. The pressure should not drop. If it does the check valve in the pump is leaking.
Back to the overheating and lack of power. That could be the transmission. You said a while back I believe that a burning smell appears when the car goes over 35 but seems to go away under that speed.
That smell could be the clutch packs and fluid burning in the transmission. That can add heat to the radiator.
You could do a driveway torque converter test to check the clutches. I cannot remember if I have suggested that to you or not.
Alright, i bought a new fuel filter and will replace one of these mornings because it’s just too hot for a lot of things.
So i drove it and i noticed something big. When i press the gas pedal down like normal, the car barely goes, but when i barely depress it, it seems that THAT is the more optimal way to gain speed rather than pressing the pedal down further. Seems as if there isn’t enough gas reaching the engine.
I will report back after i replace the fuel filter. Thanks for the inputs!
Okay i’m back. I replaced the fuel filter today. I checked the gasoline that came out the “entering” end, and it was a little murky. After replacing it, and turning to key to “on,” i listened to the fuel pump and it sounded better. It was a quicker higher pitched noise instead of a slower kinda low pitch noise, which i’m sure was good. It started up well, but sadly when it came to driving, there was no change.
There’s still that lack of power and acceleration. one thing i did note is that i floored the pedal while going about 15 mph. Usually the gears are quick to change, but the gears didn’t change at all. my speed increased slightly and the rev noise was getting louder instead of that instant loudness that usually happened when i did something like that in the past.
Could it be the fuel pump? Let me know if i should get fuel pressure readings again.
This! I troubleshoot fluid pumps at my place of employment occasionally, and in a system with a filter present, replacing the filter should be one of the first solutions you try. They are designed to be replaced. While you’re at it, replace the hoses and fittings too, who knows how old they are?
Maybe the next step is a torque converer stall test to check the clutch packs in the transmission since from your past posts the transmission may be an issue.
With the engine idling, set the park brake and hold the foot brake.
Shift into LOW and rev the engine moderately one time for a few seconds.
You should feel the engine stall around 2000 RPMs give or take.
Allow to idle for a few minutes.
Repeat the process in SECOND>
Allow to idle for a few minutes.
Repeat the process in DRIVE.
Allow to idle for a few minutes.
Do NOT do this test in OVERDRIVE.
If you see the RPMs in the tests going to say 2500, 3000, etc then the clutches are slipping.
Whatever you do, do NOT rev the engine in any of the tests and hold the RPMs up. A second or two until you feel the engine stall is all you need.
You said earlier I believe there was 37 PSI of fuel pressure and that’s about right. The problem with a clogged filter is that you might have 37 but not enough volume to maintain it. I’d hold off on the pump right now until a determination is made on the transmission.
I really appreciate your help here and I’d totally do this test, but the problem is that it’s an automatic transmission car. Gears are P, R, N, OVERDRIVE, DRIVE, and 1. There also isn’t a tachometer.
So I went ahead and got a fuel pressure reading after replacing the fuel filter. When I turned the key to “on” the PSI went up to 10 and is staying at 10. And this is after 2 days without touching the car after replacing the filter.
I turned the key to “off” then “on” again and the PSI went up to about 18 and staying steady there not even slowly increasing.
I do it again and the PSI is up to 25. Again, and it’s up to 33 PSI. And one last time brings it up to the 37 PSI it’s suppose to be at.
Basically the readings didn’t change at all since I last got pressure readings before I replaced the fuel filter.
If the I turned the key and the reading was 10 PSI, and I were to start the car like that, it would start no problem and the PSI would shoot up to 37 PSI like it’s suppose to.
Again, the car still drives the same; no change. there’s still the horrible lack of power and acceleration. It REALLY struggles going uphill. And pressing the gas more than slightly would stop the car from accelerating (as if there were no gas enough to accommodate how far the gas pedal is depressed)
If there are no restrictions you need to check for battery voltage at pump when pump is commanded on and check ground. If electrical checks out, replace pump.
Well, 37 PSI is fine but the unknown is what is it while the engine is under load? That is why I mentioned previously about a certain pressure at a certain fuel volume.
The pump should put out 37 within a couple of seconds of turning the key on. The delay while recycling the key points to a pump issue.
If by some chance a new pump does not fix it then other reasons for lack of power and gutlessness are…
Retarded ignition timing. (I had asked about rotating the distributor earlier and you said it was marked.) Hopefully marked correctly by ?. Timing MUST be set on these with the SPOUT connector disconnected.
Clogged catalytic converter.
Slippage in the drive train; meaning transmission slippage. Should be noticeable by excessive revs without additional movement forward.
Automatic transmissions have clutches internally. In your case, you’d just do the test in 1st and Drive. You don’t have a tach, but you can install one temporarily in a just few minutes. Most only have four wires. It could also help with future troubleshooting.
About a week or 2 ago, I did the screwdriver test with some of the fuel injectors, I only did it with 4 because that’s all I was able to find. I can’t find any others at all. Anyways, all 4 were sounding good and consistent; making consistent ticks in sync.
Next, earlier in the week, I got readings of the fuel pressure as I drove. With the weak power and acceleration very noticeable, the fuel pressure stayed very still at 40 PSI. I even took the car to a hill, and as it struggled to drive up it, the PSI remained at 40 incredibly steady.
But NOW, the car won’t start again. After that fuel pressure test, I haven’t attempted to start it until yesterday where it just failed to start. Just like before, it’s cranking, but not starting.
I was planning on making an air gap in the exhaust System just before the catalytic converter and drive to test to see if the issue IS the catalytic converter, but now I’m starting to think that the lack of power and acceleration and it failing to start is somehow related.
Me thinks this 1998 Crown Victoria has gone past it’s sell date . It is not a collectable or even worth the time and cost it will take to make it useable.
Well the thing is, it’s the only car I have access to. It’s also my first one. I also have a personal attachment to it. I love it a lot. I don’t really care about its value or weather or not it’s a collectible. I just want to get it up and running. I’m also wanting to pursue automotive repairs in my future, so this is also learning experience for me.
Look at the ignition coil. My memory is a bit fuzzy but I think the main power wire is green/red. Put a test light or Voltmeter at that coil connection. With the key in the RUN position or while cranking the engine you should see power provided to that terminal. If not, the ignition switch is faulty.
I do not think the lack of power and not starting is related.
I assume there is an O2 sensor ahead of the cat, just remove it for your test.
From ok4450:
“These cars also use the TFI-IV ignition module which is very prone to heat failure and especially so in the summer.”
Did you ever check that?
His comment on the ignition switch seems a valid check item to explore.