Yeah we replaced the module with a new one about 2 to 3 weeks ago.
Thank you, i’ll do this test as soon as I can
I did the test. You’re right. The wires are green and red. The ignition coil is getting about 6.3 volts of power when the key is switched to “on”
Only 6.3 volts . . . ?!
When you hooked up your test equipment, are you sure you found a good ground?
Never fall in love with something that can’t love you back. As far as learning auto repair on this obsolete car, you will only be learning how to repair obsolete cars that no one ( except me) drives anymore.
obsolete cars that no one ( except me) drives anymore.
Make that two of us.
And @georgesanjose makes 3.
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Oop’s forgot about George. 
That would limit you to dogs.
Should be 12 volts at the coil.
If there is not a ground issue I wonder about a poor contact in the ignition switch. I have not pulled up a schematic but most/many Fords have what I consider to be a poor example of electrical engineering.
They run current for the cabin blower motor directly through the ignition switch. This is a high current item and with wear becomes a much higher current item. Current means heat and it cooks the switch.
The 87 Mercury I had suffered 2 switch failures; the last with my wife getting off work. So I had to do some splicing to get it home. After going over the schematic I found the cabin blower thing and decided to bypass the switch by adding a relay and routing the cabin blower hot wire through that. That second switch only lasted about 35k miles before giving up the ghost and the addition of a relay took care of that problem permanently.
It’s the same scenario with Hondas routing the ECM, fuel pump, and so on through the ignition switch. Heat kills them over time.
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Yeah I’m aware that barely anyone sees older cars on the roads anymore, but there will be special cases sometimes in auto shops. Plus, I gotta start somewhere. I feel like learning with an older car helps me get the basics of what each part does. I’m still kinda a beginner and I haven’t taken a single class yet, but will. When I take classes, it’ll educate me on the more modern and newer cars that aren’t as mechanical. Don’t get me wrong; I completely understand where you’re coming from
My mistake. I used the ground wire (which I assumed to be the green wire) as the ground. I checked again with an actual GOOD ground. And the coil is getting about 11.6 Volts when the key is switched to “on”.
Also thanks for the insight. One thing that reminds me of is that the day before all this started I was sitting in the car with family during my sisters graduation (covid graduation. It’s qas kinda a like a drive thru graduation). And for an hour, I’ve had the A/C on and we were sitting in the school parking lot not moving. It was the very next day when all this started happening and I’m wondering if it’s related to what you were saying about the blower motor.
When I say “all” I mean the lack of power and acceleration. The not starting problem came about a week after, and of course, it was able to start up again, but now it won’t start…again.
Make sure you have 12 volts at that red/green coil wire in both the RUN and the START position. If you have 12 volts in both positions and it will not start then the problem is elsewhere.
Spark, fuel pressure, compression, and injector pulse it should run.
I’m wondering if maybe you need to borrow (AutoZone???) a timing light and verify that the timing is correct. If the timing was set previously without disconnecting the SPOUT connector it may be off as much as 10 degrees or more.
Have you learned to pull codes yet on these things? It’s crude in comparison to OBDII and a bit tricky.
Maybe there’s a loss of the PIP signal from the distributor. That can be erratic or permanent.