With some digging around you can probably find an AOD transmission on the cheap. Granted there’s always a risk with a used unit but if the miles are fairly low then it’s worth a shot.
The last one I bought cost a whopping 75 bucks and it works like new.
As for not starting that’s difficult to say without hands on but the fuel injection/engine managment on these is pretty simple.
These cars also use the TFI-IV ignition module which is very prone to heat failure and especially so in the summer.
We’re unsure if it has a spark, but it’s definitely cranking fast enough to start.
Just an hour ago, me and my dad towed it back to the house from the transmission place from yesterday. But before we towed it, we tried to crank it up. And first try it cranked up, but the moment it cranked up, it was on, but it was really rough and was rumbling before turning right back off. It only stayed on and rumbled for about 4 seconds.
I’ll be able to check the fuel pressure by Friday, because that’s when I get paid and I’ll be able to buy a fuel pressure gauge.
I’ll definitely do some digging to find a cheaper transmission. I’m totally aware of the risk, hopefully i’d get the same results as you.
Update!
So the main problem right now is that the car won’t start. It’s definitely got spark, the fluids are up to level, and there is definitely enough gas in it to get it started. the fuel pump is working properly, but it just won’t start at all. like it wants to, but it can’t
but… just today, we replaced the ignition control module, AND the ignition coil, and it still won’t start. it’s doing the exact same thing.
I still haven’t gotten a reading of the fuel pressure yet, but I’ll get that done soon.
When it comes to the initial problem with the lack of power and acceleration, I read and found out that the module and coil could be potential suspects for that, so I’ll test out the driving once we get the car started.
Afterward, I checked the fuses and they were all fine, but I couldn’t check the relays. I’m gonna check and test those tomorrow when I get some alligator clips.
If anyone has any input to add or any thoughts, feel free to say something.
Here’s audio of the cranking just to make things clearer. At first it cranked at a higher pitch and speed and that’s usually enough to have gotten it started, and so I let go of the key for a second to see if it would start (of course, it didn’t) and that’s what the brief pause was early on. Also if you listen carefully, you’ll be able to hear the fuel pump engage.
Now that the fuel pump has completely failed this should be easy to diagnose.
I can’t listen to much of anything; even with a hearing aid. My hearing was shot a long time ago and hearing a fuel pump over PC speakers is a no-go for me.
Since you have spark and if I make the assumption (Right or wrong) that the fuel pump is working you need to check for a fuel injector pulse. This can be done with a Noid light, a stethoscope, or by placing the handle of a long shank screwdriver against your ear and the tip against a fuel injector while the engine is cranked over. You should hear a repeated faint clicking sound.
Thank you! I’ll definitely run this test soon once we get the car started.
Okay so as i’ve said before. Now the main problem Is that the car isn’t starting. I’ve listed already things i’ve replaced, but it still hasn’t started. It’s cranking, but it just won’t start.
Just yesterday, I tested the relays and found one bad one and replaced it. After that, the car still won’t start. Nothing has changed. The only thing left that hasn’t been replaced is the crankshaft position sensor which I will replace tomorrow. If replacing this doesn’t get it to start, we’ll have no idea why.
Don’t think this car even has a crank position sensor since it’s a TFI model car. When you changed the ignition module did you rotate or remove the distributor?
And you do not have to have the engine running to hear an injector pulse. This could be heard simply with the engine cranking over.
Yes. We did have to rotate the distributor. Luckily, before we did, we noticed there were notches in the metal at the base of where it rotates and where it sits that showed how it was suppose to line up. These notches were already lined up, so after rotating it to replace the module, we lined the notches back up and it’s back to how it was originally.
Also I thought you had to have the engine runnkng to hear the injector pulse. Thank you for the heads up. I’ll run that test tomorrow for sure!
I mentioned the distributor because the ignition timing is very touchy on the TFI model cars.
With the injector pulse you should hear a faint tick, tick, tick sound as the injector pulses. A fuel injector is nothing more than an electrical solenoid just like the solenoid on a starter motor. Only difference is the fuel flow and needle which allows and cuts off fuel flow.
Don’t think this car even has a crank position sensor since it’s a TFI model car.
Oh yeah! and also i was questioning whether or not the car had the sensor in the first place. When i did research on auto store websites it didn’t show up on their list. But when i checked Autozone for the part, it said they had one, but on one screen it said “fits your vehicle” but on another it said “doesn’t fit our vehicle.”
I understand. Thank you. I’ll report back with my findings on the injector pulses tomorrow.
The symptoms in your original post suggests a weak fuel supply, yet you have replaced ignition parts. Is there no spark?
I find that AutoZone has many listings that are dead wrong. Don’t get discouraged; this will get sorted out.
The engine management system on these cars is pretty simple actually and odds are the cause of not starting will turn out to be something that will make you wonder why you never thought of it to begin with. It happens to everyone including me a few times. Especially if a little frustration sets in and the mind starts to wander off somewhere.
I’ve wrestled nasty electrical problems a few times; beating my head on the wall. I go home irritated, fall asleep at night, and while asleep the answer comes to me in a dream; or a nightmare. I stumble out of bed, jot down a few barely legible notes, and go back to sleep. Next day at work the notes always turned out to be right. Got the job done but it did beat me up a bit; especially with little sleep and a 170 miles a day commute.
Have you tried to remove the fuel pump relay and jump a couple of terminals to energize the pump?
No i haven’t tried that
BUT I made a discovery.
I bought a fuel pressure gauge and stuff. I connected to the fuel line, turned the key to the “on” position, and read the gauge. The gauge read 0 PSI and was slowly rising (rising about 1 PSI a minute). I turned the key to “off” and waited a little bit. The gauge stayed steady at whatever PSI it was on, but slowly decreasing. When i put te ley to the “on” position again, the gauge read 10 PSI. It didn’t get there immediately, it slowly rose to 10. I decided to do this a few times and the gauge kept rising, the PSI caps out at about 37 PSI and stays steady.
Could this be a fuel pump issue? or is something clogged?
Other notes: When i tried to start the car with that 37 PSI, it still wouldn’t start at the pressure readings stayed steady and still. When I put the key to “off” the PSI slowly decreases.
Fuel pump pressure acting like this is either plugged filter, kinked or damaged fuel lines or a bad pump.
Update
So… After setting the key in “off” the pressure was decreasing at like about 2 PSI every 5 minutes. I released the rest of that pressure and put the key to “on”
But this time, it went up to 37 PSI really quickly which i bet is the norm, but the pressure still decreases at an incredibly slow rate (which i’m unsure if it’s the norm).
I’m not sure if what happened not long ago happened because i haven’t set the key to “on” in 12+ hours or what…
