'06 Saturn Ion Cold Start Problems

Hope this helps. The heat gun and the lock de-icer are good ideas too!!!

So here is the real deal with the starting problem. I own a Saturn Ion2 2004. I researched it and asked Saturn and they confirmed it. This is only for Saturn Ion 1 and 2 for the years 2003 to 2006.

The ignition switch has a fluid in it to ease startup. Unfortunately that fluid starts to freeze around 35 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit and takes about 12 hours to become viscous (slushy) enough to cause problems. So if you start the car again within about 8 hours of the last start it will start up again easily and warm up the ignition switch enough. But that is very inconvenient thing to do overnight, which is why most problems arise on the first startup of the day. Once the startup fails you have to wait at least 10 minutes to try again. Saturn Ions have a failsafe that prevents theft. The car basically intreprets the failed start as a hotwire job and locks out another startup for 10 minutes (PassLock and may show a “service vehicle light”). After 10 minutes the thief should be annoyed and leave or get caught, at least that’s the idea.

Removing the fluid causes even worse startup problems and replacing the ignition switch means replacing with a part that has the exact same fluid in it. Saturn will not recall this part and change it because they say that a recall is not warranted due to that fact that this part does not cause a hazardous situation (like Ford Explorer exploding tires in the late 90’s for example). I disagree on that point. Not being able to start in cold weather could put someone in a position to be stranded in the middle of nowhere and possibly die if it is cold enough or they are not found for long enough.

The only solutions I have found are these (solution 2, 3, and 5 work best together):

1)get ready early on cold days and expect a problem.
2)keeping the car in a garage helps alot because it is not exposed to any wind that might lower the temperature around the car. also some garages are slightly heated.
3)wrap a heavy scarf around the steering column to insulate the ignition switch. i found this one works pretty good.
4)if you have a heating pad and can run a cord to the car,when you first get up place the heating pad on the steering column and set it on the lowest heat setting. leave it there until you are ready to leave and the ignition switch (and the steering wheel) should be warm
5)if you can’t do 2,3,and 4, then try to start the car once, will probably fail. remove the key for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes put the key in the ignition switch and turn it only enough to get the electricity going (!!! don’t start it yet or you will have to start all over again!!!) leave the key in the switch with the car off and let the heat run at its highest setting. it won?t seems hot because the air is not running through the engine to heat it but it will be enough to normalize the temperature in the car. after 5 or so minutes of running the heat, try to start the car again. keep doing this until the car starts.

Have not try these two yet:

6)i have heard of cordless hair dryers, can’t find one to buy yet though. but i read about someone in canada using it to heat up the ignition switch before the first start and it working
7)try heating the key. i heard this may work also.

I’ve got an 03 Saturn Ion with the same problem. After I found dozens of forums about this issue on the internet and finding out that replacing the ignition switch does not solve the problem, I found this video on YouTube, titled “Cutting the White Wire on Saturn Ion”

This video shows you how to disengage the PassLock system so your car can start on cold days. It has worked for my Ion, but since this solution makes the car easier to steal, so instead of using wire nuts like the video, I installed a $5 Toggle Switch in the wire to engage the PassLock system during the summer.

HERE IS THE REAL SOLUTION!!! I had this problem and after a year of trying the heat-the-key method and others that didn’t work, I found the real solution on-line (but don’t have the link to post). What the steps below do is disable the passlock system and it worked on my 2004 Saturn Ion-2:

  1. Remove the steering wheel column cover (not the piece where you honk the horn, remove the part with the soft rubber piece where the wheel meets the dash) to expose the wiring to the ignition switch and unwrap the tape or wire ties so that you can access the WHITE wire.
  2. Start the car normally. If you have the problem with the 10-minute wait at this point, you’ll just have to wait and try again until you can get the car started normally. The rest of the steps require the car to be running and having been started with a valid key code.
  3. Once started, CUT THE WHITE WIRE (all white, no stripes. There may be other white wires with stripes, so of the 6 or so wires, inspect well first). The passlock system will beep a few times and the passlock light in the dash will come on. Also, in the mileage display window it’ll say “Service Vehicle.” Hit the mileage/change oil reset button once to see normal mileage display.
  4. Tape ends of white wires with electrical tape making sure the two ends will never touch again!
  5. Retape/retie the ignition wires and put the cover back on.

You’re done! Now you can shut the car off and it’ll start again every time in all weather. You’ll never have it fail to start and make you wait 10 minutes again. The nuisance of this is that every time you start the car, it’ll say “Service Vehicle” in the mileage display and the passlock light in the dash will stay on all the time. But so what? Just hit the mileage/change oil reset button and drive on. I’m never stuck and it cost me NOTHING to fix this.

I too have purchased a 2006 Saturn Ion 3. It has 43K miles on it. I bought it in August, so I haven’t experienced the cold start issue yet, but I anticipate it happening. I plan to buy a box of the hand warmers that hunters use (You know the kind: you take it out of the package and put it in you pocket or shoe) and place it on the ignition switch over night. I hope that works. If so, I will keep a couple of the hand warmers in my purse for use when I am away from home.

I have had the passkey problem. We followed the instructions on how to cut the “white wire”. Sadly, it did not work, so we spliced it back together. I then went to the owner’s manual to re-read the info re: the passlock system. It mentioned that if the light came on while driving the car, there was a problem & to check the fuses. I got my hopes up thinking that MAYBE there was a dedicated fuse for just the passlock. No such luck; however, I read that the car may not recognize the key.

When I bought the car, the dealer only had one key. I took the key to a locksmith & had extras made. I used one of the copies for a couple of weeks before this problem came up, so I switched back to the original key, and SO FAR, have not had any more starting problems. If the original key continues to work for another 2 to 3 weeks, then I will bite the bullet & go to Saturn repair shop and pay $25 for a new key.

My 2006 Ion had the not starting for 10 minutes issue today. 3pm, over 70 degrees in Los Angeles on October 27, 2022. Anyone else getting this more frequently now & in warmer temps? Any new way to stop it, other than cutting the white wire, which I’m not going to do. My keys do not have a chip in them, so I know it has nothing to do with the key. I set a timer & the car, as always, started exactly 10 minutes later. My Ionhas 96,000 miles on it, so it should last a long time, so I would like to find a good solution.

Is this a cranks ok – that rrr rrrr rrr sound – but doesn’t catch and run? Or is it a no-crank at all problem, don’t hear the rrr rrr rrrr sound?

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No sound at all. It’s definitely the security system flaw that has been written about before. It started exactly 10 minutes later. It used to happen once every 2 or 3 years. It’s happened 3 times this year so far, starting in July, last time was last week.

It seems like the easiest solution is to just disable the security system. 15 year old Saturn unlikely theft target. Worried about theft from passenger compartment or trunk? Just don’t leave anything valuable in the car.

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My friend had a 2005 ION with the same 10 minute no start problem. but with his it only happened when he used the remote start. if you have remote start and are using it to start the vehicle it could be the problem. he also had the problem of the key getting stuck in the ignition intermittently there was a recall for the ignition switch. had it replaced and it took care of that problem. well, at least for about 5-6 years and then it came back.

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My car doesn’t have a remote start, so that’s not it. My car did the recall about a decade ago. The issue didn’t start until about 5 years ago.

Any chance the problem could be related to the neutral safety switch; sometimes referred to as a range selector switch?
You could try shifting into neutral and see what happens.

Another method would be to check for power at the small wire at the starter solenoid. Power should be present whenever the key is in the START position and the shift lever is in either the PARK or NEUTRAL position.
If the vehicle has a manual transmission that leads to the possibility of a clutch safety switch issue. Auto or manual; it’s all easily checked.

Thanks. I’ll try that next time. Funny thing happened this morning. The Service Vehicle thing came up on the screen, but the car started. I’m guessing it’s because I was only getting gasoline & didn’t turn on the alarm. Car started normally. Service Vehicle disappeared after I got home. I guess it’s because it was more than 10 minutes later.

lol 
 seems those messages weren’t of much help to you. This sort of thing becomes more common as cars become more like rolling computers. I can hear the corporate board room folks: “If something can be done, do it. It’s only software!”

Since Saturn no longer exists, GM most likely doesn’t care. Taking it to a dealership would only cost me money & nothing will get fixed since it’s unlikely to happen while they have it.

Have the drivetrain computer diagnostic codes been inspected? If not, that’s worth asking a shop to take a look. Doesn’t require a dealership, inexpensive just to display the codes, and if they find any, its your option to fix or not. It’s so easy that many diy’er inclined car owners check their car’s diagnostic codes themselves, either by purchasing a code-reader, or asking the local car parts place to do it for them as a courtesy. Many provide that service gratis. In any event, before deciding what to do about diagnostic codes, post the numbers here for opinions. They usually begin with the letter “P”. P0430 for example.

No codes at all. I always check.

That’s the key experiment at this point imo.

You are probably right about that assessment. Ask around at the auto-electric-repair shops in your area, maybe somebody would have some ideas for a work-a-round.

I just went out to the car right now & no codes.

Problems with cranking usually do not produce diagnostic codes. It’s not that it wouldn’t be possible for manufacturers to provide fails-to-crank self-diagnostic help for their cars, but that the diagnostic codes are primarily for emissions-related problems, and cranking failures aren’t emission related.