2013 F150 power window mystery

2013 XLT Crew Cab 140,000 miles, Here is my story…

A while back my front drivers side window quit working, the rest of the windows still function properly. Checked my fuses and they were all still good. I then pulled the door panel off and none of the regulator cables were busted, so I figured I would replace the motor. I replaced it with this one…

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo…sn=467&jsn=467

After installing, the new motor will lift and lower the window, yay. However after maybe about 15 seconds or so of running it, or if I hit the auto up/down on the switch the motor will run full up/full down then stop working completely. Unless I unplug the motor, plug it back in, then it will work again like previously until it stops again.

I then thought maybe the auto up/down function on the switch was the issue. I replaced the door switch with this one…

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo…t=4624&jsn=537

Tried it out and there is no difference with the window function. Now I am thinking my truck does not like the rock auto window motor. I order a replacement motor regulator assembly from my ford dealer, install it. Now this one doesn’t move at all, no up, no down, nothing. Now I am wondering if maybe the motor was never an issue?

I am pretty much stuck short of checking continuity in the harness wires, but the fact that the Rock auto motor would at least run for a sec but not the Ford motor has me scratching my head.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I am at a loss.

Thanks,

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The BCM controls all window functions.

Tester

Power windows typically have some kind of resetable fuse used for overload protection in case someone holds the switch down. That component could be failing.

Have you measured Voltages at the door motor? The standard door takes 3 wires. 1 is +12V, the other two are normally grounded and normally connected through the switch in the neutral position to the motor. When the local switch is used, it uses the +12 to operate the motor. When the master switch is used, it applies +12 to one of the two normally grounded wires. If everything is controlled by a BCM in this vehicle then things could be much different. It still seems like an overload protection issue, even if it is integrated in to a BCM. It could likely be fixed on a component level by an electronics repair shop.

On a car from the 1980’s or 1990’s, a power window motor would be plug-and-pay. However, on a 2013, maybe there is some kind of learning/programming/calibration procedure required once the motor is replaced. If such a thing is required, you would need a professional scan tool to perform the procedure.

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This is true, at least on some cars. There is a procedure for it on my car, but I don’t remember what it is. But it is a Simple DIY once you know the procedure.

Window initialization procedure – Ford — Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice | Automotive Repair Tips and How-To

Called a circuit breaker IN the motor. Resets itself.

No scan tool required. Raise the window and hold the UP button for more than 8 seconds. Done. At least that is how the Mustangs do it.

I think there is more going on here… like maybe the tracks have so much resistance the motors circuit breaker is popping immediately. Ford’s motor may be set lower than the aftermarket part.

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It sounds like you got a good start on a solution, but no matter how good the replacement motor is, it won’t do the job properly if the mechanism that raises and lowers the window is jammed and/or corroded or needs lube. In fact if there’s something amiss there, it could damage the new motor. Sort of like replacing a garage door opener, first step is make sure the door is properly counter-balanced & opens and closes smoothly by hand.

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It could be a wire failing at the hinge area of the door. It sounds like it might have separated enough to break the connection completely.

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I did follow the memory reset instructions from ford. Run the auto up function, while the window is running, disconnect the battery. That wipes the memory. Then re-attach, run the motor all the way up (not auto up) until it stops, hold 3 seconds. Then run down, hold 3 seconds.

This didn’t help though and still functions the same

I think you should check out what NYBo said. pull back the rubber cover on the wires that go from the door into the fender and look for damaged wires.

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pulled the rubber cover off of the harness and did find that there were about 5 wires that did have the insulation cracking and exposing copper. I did a little surgery however this was NOT the issue. But while re-assembling the door I happened to notice where the harness was running through a hole in the door panel, it sagged enough to rest on the edge of the hole, and appears to have over time wore away the harness wrap, and severed a wire completely. A little soldering and now back in business, turns out the original motor still works.

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I can see why you had so much trouble w/this problem. Even though the problem was a broken harness wire, you replaced the window motor then it worked. Sort of. That would lead most any tech to believe the problem was still the motor, something it was moving, the switch, or the control electronics.