I have a 1994 olds sierra station wagon. The windows will not go up or down. I checked all the fuses and they are okay, any suggestions…thanks debbie
Are you checking them from the drivers door only? Try each door separately.
The usual fault is a break in the wire between the car frame and the driver’s door.
I started to take the door apart, there is a little panel behind the power swithes on the drivers side and there are alot of plug-in type devices that are all secure. Would you advise on how I would go about finding the break and how do I fix it…thanks so much in advance by the way debbie
Hi Roadrunner the other doors do not work either when I tried them separately thanks debbie
Is this something that a woman can tackle? or do I need to go to a mechanic? thanks so much…debbie
Certainly a woman can do it, all you need are a few small tools.
A continuity tester will suffice to find the break (easy to use and inexpensive).
There are different types, so if you are in doubt ask at the store.
What J.E.M. posted is a common wiring fault in practically all vehicles ever built due to age and constant drivers door openings and closings.
To check for power at the drivers door power window switch, first ensure the fuse IS good.
Perhaps take another one of the same amperage and replace the doubtful one. (If it turns out your original fuse was no good, don’t forget to replace the borrowed fuse as well as a new one)
Have you replaced the door panel already? If so, take a small screwdriver and gently pry the power window switch out of the arm rest.
When using the tester ensure you have a clean,solid ground otherwise the tester will not work.
I think it will be better to concentrate on getting the drivers door power window to work first, then worry about the others later.
Check for power to the switch from the fuse panel.
If power is there, activate the switch and make contact with the tester on the opposite terminal of the switch. If there is no power there, the switch is likely worn out and will need replacing.
If you have the panel removed, you should be able to see the wire going from the switch to the window regulator. Is there power there?
If there is power on the other side of the switch, the switch is good and now you need to check for a broken wire inside the rubber or plastic ‘accordion’ wiring cover between the door and the door post like Joseph suggested.
This is where a wiring diagram comes in handy.
I’m going to stop and see if you found a dead fuse or broken wire to the door window switch.
thanks so much for all the great advice…I did check all the fuses and they were all okay…how about relays are those something to check also…or just the fuses…thanks so much again…debbie
Somewhere there is an open circuit. There MAY be a circuit breaker in place of a relay. (possibly 30 amp) You can’t tell by looking at it if it works or not.
That’s why I said you need a wiring diagram. Check out the continuity of the wiring.
I don’t know what else to tell you at this point.
For your knowledge, as the insulation on the wires ages it turns brittle. When the insulation breaks there is nothing to prevent the wire from kinking and eventually breaking from constant bending.
Hence the need to check for a possible wiring break at the door and post.
Your public library might have a Haynes or Chilton’s manual for your car. These typically tell you if there are fusible links, fuses, relays, or anything else that might control power throughput. Your owner’s manual may have that information, too. Look for diagrams and pictures that will help you locate the box on the car and the device within the box.
The schematic shows a 30 amp circuit breaker providing power to all of the windows so Roadrunner is correct. It could be that age or a combination of age/dragging window(s) has done the breaker in.
It should be located in the fuse block somewhere and looks something like this.
Zip code? That the url you wanted OK?
Debbie, after you’ve done all the above diagnostic testing for a broken wire, blown fuse, relay or circuit breaker and you still haven’t located the problem and your head is breaking and your mind has been stretched to it’s limits, you will need to replace the power window motor inside the door.
Ignore the zip. The part house sites always ask for a zip to keep you automatically logged in.
Hope no one has trouble pulling that up; the url should show a circuit breaker at about 3 bucks.
When I looked at it yesterday, there wasn’t a circuit breaker in sight. Perhaps I should have clicked on other links there. Most times when you have to log in, you can’t search willy nilly, so I didn’t bother.
That’s happened with me a number of times. Open a link and nothing there.
We’ve had an annoying tendency lately for a couple of my wife’s email accounts to pop up. A lot of screen flickering and whatnot followed by her email account appearing; shortly followed by “what are you doing in my mailbox?”
Like I had a choice or even care.