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Window Tint - yay or nay?


So, I am planning on having my 2015 Kia Sportage tinted on Saturday (just the front 2 windows) since the back is already factory tinted. Anyway, I am debating between 20% which will match up with the factory rear tint, or go lighter (35%). I want the factory “look” but am afraid that the darker tint may cause issues.

What percentage of tint do you all have? Have you had any issues with vertical scratches from rolling the windows up and down? I was told it does that when debris gets in there. So, I’m thinking that I should probably NOT roll them down when they’re full of salt unless it’s necessary, LOL…

Anyway, the tinter is going to use Johnson Marathon tint, which is suppose to be good. I’m just looking for what others have and their thoughts before I make a final determination on Saturday morning.



NAY . . . do not get your windows tinted

Not at all

Yes, I have seen the tint scratched, due to debris. Even the tiniest debris, which you may not even be able to see, can do this

I have seen MANY window tint jobs go horribly wrong. Some are so bad, you can’t see well. Others start to bubble. Removing tinting, should the need arise, is not fun.

I’ve seen more bad jobs than good

I only have the factory tint in my cars

I don’t know if you have sensitive eyes. Just wear shades, if you need to

Yikes! I haven’t had any problems on my previous car, but I am really debating if it’s worth it or not… I don’t want the scratches either…

I have my car at 20% which is nice… Only thing I would say to watch out for is the tint bubbling up its extremely annoying… This could happen on extremely hot days. darn you Las Vegas!

In my experience, almost all “aftermarket” tint jobs will not last nearly as long as factory tint

But like I said, I’ve seen more bad jobs than good

I just thought of something else . . . it’s imperative that the installer puts the tint far enough down. So that when you roll the windows up and down, it doesn’t constantly catch on the lower edge of the tint.

I suppose the best method would be to remove the glass, install the tint, then reinstall

but that ain’t gonna happen . . . not unless your tint shop is in Beverly Hills :tongue:

I’ve got 20% on my cars and its invaluable here in OK due to the sun and heat. One can detect a huge difference on the left arm when comparing a tinted to an untinted window.

I wouldn’t think bubbling would be that big an issue on door glass. Rear glass is very prone to this problem due to the compound curves; given enough heat and time.
The rear on my Lincoln is starting to bubble some but after 18 years I’m not surprised by this.

Hahah! John, have you had any issues with vertical scratches in your tint from rolling the windows up and down? What tint brand did they use? Do you get hassled by the cops with that dark of tint?

Has anyone noticed scratches from rolling the windows and down? That and the visibility at night are my biggest concerns…followed by being hassled by the cops.

“visibility at night” . . . another reason I recommend against aftermarket tint

“being hassled by the cops” in my neck of the woods, law enforcement has bigger fish to fry :trollface:

I have not had any issues with scratches on my car although I have seen some tint that is scratched.
In many cases those scratches (if not due to inferior tint) is due to a window seal or glass guide problem.

OK has laws on some tint (25%) but it’s not enforced as far as I know. Ironically, some of the darkest tint is on law enforcement vehicles. Limo tint so to speak.

I disagree about the “window seal or glass guide problem.”

Even a window seal in perfect condition will accumulate some small amount of dirt and debris over the years. I don’t see that as a problem

Same thing for the guide

This is not a problem for glass, because it’s harder than a sheet of tint. But it can be a problem for tint

Others may strongly disagree, but that’s fine :smiley:

Is this legal where you live? It wouldn’t be for me.

If you have one of those FOBs that the vehicle detects and unlocks the door when you touch the handle and has a push button to start or stop the engine, then you can only use a carbon fiber tint. The metallic tints will block the RFID.

The carbon fiber tints are more expensive, but in my opinion, look much better. Mine was professionally installed and there have been no issues. Mine is 39% but looks much darker than the metallic 38% tints. BTW most window glass these days has a UV tint already and is 90% to visible light, so to pass the 35% test, you have to use 38 or 39% tint.

The same guy did my 2002 Saturn when it was new. After 275k miles and 12 years (when I sold it), there were never any scratches, bubbling or fading. It was a metallic 38% tint.

I did my own tint on my truck and it has scratched, faded and bubbled and waved over the years. The pros get the better stuff.

Be sure to get a 5% tint at the top of your windshield. You won’t believe how much it helps when you are driving into a setting or rising sun. I’ll never have another vehicle without it.

Since you have an SUV, I’d guess that your back windows are already at 20%. Your front windows are probably already at 35% so if that is the case, you cannot legally tint them anymore. 35% is the maximum tint allowed on front side windows in just about any state.

I have two cars with aftermarket tints, both 95% on the rears and 80% front. One had a 3 yr warranty and one has lifetime. They have held up nicely so far. The 3 yr warranty car has had the tint for 4 yrs now and only one scratch and that is from my wife’s ring. It is still a life saver in the 100+ heat here in CA desert.

I prefer lighter tint, when making turns it is difficult to see pedestrians with dark tint. In Nevada 20% is not allowed on the front side glass. No tint is allowed on the windshield but some people have tinted windshields.

95% of the vehicles here have tinted windows but pealing, bubbling and scratches are not an issue. Scratches are from sand getting into the inside belt line weather strips but not a common problem.

I have two daily drivers. The one with no tint I drive during the winter months as I can see well out the side windows during the dark evenings. The vehicle with tinted windows is more comfortable driving in the hot sun on a 100 degree plus day.

35% tint would be the maximum for me, while driving customers cars with 20% tint I need to lower the front windows after dark to make a right or left turn.

@Jman136 naw no scratches… Just bubbles on the rear passenger window and it bubbled a little on the rear windshield… Which again is an annoyance haha but it was factory installed and on a car that’s 18 years old I guess that’s to be expected. Also in California I believe you can’t tint the drivers window past 35%? I’m not entirely sure but thought I read somewhere about that

@Jman136 have never run into any issues with the kipper coppers… And I would have to check what tint name the Ford dealer used on the car… Haha funny you ask about the cops because the car I drive is a '98 Grand Marquis :open_mouth: !

There is no factory tint film. Factory tint is in the glass, not applied to the outside of the glass. A fifteen year lifespan for tint film is reasonable.

Law in NY is it has to be less than 30 % on the sides, front sides cannot be metallic reflective. It is enforced here. Mostly as an excuse to pull you over.

If I lived in Miami I’d have the maximum amount of tint allowed by state regulations. Keeps the inside of the car from becoming a broiler oven.
But I live in NH… and we like passive solar heat… so up here I get the least available in the car I’m buying.