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Window regulator motor

I’ve got a replacement regulator frame for my 98 Honda Civic Coupe. Worn teeth on the original regulator frame = glass that wouldn’t go to the very top of the door. Everything is out and ready to go back in. The electric motor was running fine when I manually pushed the glass up the last 3/4" while the replacement regulator frame was found (and the window stayed put in that ‘full up’ position) but appears to be frozen now. Power gets to the connection boot. The gear on the motor body won’t spin with power or without, just moves a hair if manually nudged. Could I have jammed the motor’s transmission when I pushed the glass up that last little bit? The tranny is in a sealed plastic case. Suggestion?

Cancel this one. I’ve isolated it to a bad connection at the connection fittings. With other power to the motor (from my battery charger on lowest amps) the motor runs fine in both directions. Just one of those nasty coincidences. Off to buy new connectors or just jump it. Sheesh.

All done. Bought trailer wire connectors, cut the factory connectors off, soldered on the new ones and it works better than it did before. New/old regulator frame, original motor and lots of new grease on the traveler rails. Wish I’d bought new wipes for the door, now. Next time.

I might need to do one of these myself. Did you use silicone for the rails the glass follows as it goes up? Are the ‘wipes’ the black weatherstripping that it slides through as it comes out of the door? Is so where can you find good ones? thanks. Mine gets stuck a few inches down but I can pull it up by hand with the power motor’s help.

I didn’t silicone the guide rails, but am looking for a source for silicone ‘grease’. I did clean the guides. That’s what wipes are. They help keep water and gook out of the inside of the door. A few gear teeth on the leg of your regulator might be striped out. The way you describe pulling the glass up sounds like mine. If you use a mirror and flashlight you can see the teeth through the inside of the door through the holes in the sheet metal. Not easy to see, and they’ll be gooped up with old grease, but you might be able to confirm the condition of the teeth. Sounds like your motor is OK (mine was). Swapping motors is easy.

I got my regulator from a Detroit yard that listed the part via ( Worked for me.

I have silicone spray in a can that someone gave me. I wonder if anything is scratching the glass if it must be caught in the wipers? I will pull the door panel off to see what I can see. I went to the website and looked for ‘regulator’ or ‘window regulator’ but didn’t see either. I saw some hondas in a junkyard with wipes that looked in better condition than mine. I wonder if they are glued in or are hard to remove intact. I will go ‘wipe hunting’ as well as regulator hunting if both are fairly easy to get. Here’s some silicone grease:

Since there is grease in the traveler rails - do the edges of the window actually go through it?

One time my window got stuck. It was wet and I could get it to work intermittently by hitting the inside of the door. Someone took the panel off and showed me to put new solder on the contact and then it worked great. I guess it wears over time.

My prior post was misleading. The wipes don’t guide the glass, they squeegee the water off the outside of the glass as it lowers down into the door. I’m told you have to remove the rear view windows to replace them.

Traveler rails? Is that the term for the horizontal legs of the regulator? They guide the legs of the regulator that are not fixed to the bottom of the glass, and get well greased. I don’t know if the guides (vertical channels that guide the glass up and down at the front and rear of the door panel) get greased with the silicon or not, but it seems reasonable, as you wouldn’t put a petroleum grease on the rubber seals that the glass touches.

Wipes dry out over time. They might be a good product to buy new. I’m told that you take the rear view mirrors off to install new ones. Easy to do.