Noticed Corolla brakes lights on all the time. Inspected service manual circuit diagrams, faulty brake light switch seemed likely. Switch located near brake pedal, awkward place to work. Disconnected battery, vacuumed dirt from driver’s side carpet. Tested switch in-situ with ohm meter, failed test, switch always on irrespective of pedal position, confirming that faulty switch is likely cause. Attempted to remove switch’s harness connector , locked or stuck. Popped hood to inspect similar connector in engine compartment to see how to unlock. Engine compartment connector broke attempting to remove it. At least I figured out how to unlock the brake switch connector, which I did, then removed the brake switch. Bench test with ohm meter, switch seemed to work ok. Reinstalled. Didn’t work. Removed switch again. Gathered necessary data/money, began 20 minute walk towards parts store to buy new switch. Decided at 10 minute mark the problem might not be switch, since it bench tested ok. Returned to Corolla, inspected switch area with better lighting. Switch apparently works by contacting rubber pad attached to bracket on pedal ass’y. Rubber pad was missing. Found rubber pad inside vacuum cleaner. Reinstalled, brake lights working.
I had to do as many automotive repairs as I could out of necessity. I have a lot of respect for mechanics who do this work day in and day out.
My auto maintenance today is limited to checking the oil and other fluids under the hood, checking the tire pressure and inflating to the recommended pressure if necessary, and vacuuming the interior when Mrs. Triedaq nags me enough. I take our vehicles through a car wash–there are too many other things I would rather do.
Sounds fine to me, we have read a few reports, no code, can’t help you. So my old boat, was surging, then pulling into the dock it dies. I poured the gas from the little boat tank into the can for the big boat tank to use up last years gas. I don’t know if you know boats but for evinrudes there is a clip stud that holds the line on to the
gas tank, and it was gone! Probably been loose and slipping out for a while. Got a new fitting for the tank and life is good. Now Let us take the boat in, surging, dying, probably a compression check etc. etc., and it ended up being a $10 part on the tankt. I even had bought a carb rebuild kit, last year, maybe I will need it in the future.
I’ve seen that problem a number of times over the years along with an associated one involving that.
After use for a while, sometimes the plungers on switches will create an indention in the rubber pad and that indention can cause brake light, cruise, clutch safety switch problems, and so on.
Today is just another step to being more qualified to be that real auto mechanic. I have to believe that this happens all the time. To fix the connector in the engine compartment, just use a propane torch to fuse the ends together. So many levels to achieve, so little time.
That’s actually a pretty common problem on Toyotas . . .
A common scenario is that the rubber pad breaks and falls off, the brake lights stay on, but the owner doesn’t notice until the car won’t start due to the parasitic draw. If you shut off the engine and don’t walk past the tail lights, it might be some time until you’re aware of the problem
Another typical scenario is the car won’t start because the rubber pad on the clutch pedal switch has broken off . . .
