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Which Engine oil for 1987 Acura Integra with 160k?

I switched to Valvoline high mileage oil around 110k due to oil seepage from the bottom gasket on the engine - Valvoline high mileage probably stopped it

Then might have used syn blend with high mileage and also just full syn

Last two yrs went to Firestone and they used Kendall on the recommendation of a very good Honda m/c. Firestone no longer does Kendall. BTW, if Kendall (syn blend) how many miles before another oil change assuming short distance drives?

So wondering what to use - wondering if Castrol high mileage is better than Valvoline? A m/c at Pepboys tells me that you put high mileage between 100k-150k and then go full synthetic - if this is correct, I am thinking of using Mobil1 Full Syn. Do I still use the OEM spec of 10W 40 oil?

When I searched Kragen, this is what I got:

On a car that old, just use standard dino oil and forget the synthetic or blend. Don’t try to go for extended oil changes with syn. That’s a fools errand in my opinion. I only use Mobil but the brand is less important than the frequency and proper weight.

+1 for Bing. I use Castrol so I recommend using it.

Any 10w30.

Honda has retro-recommended 5W20 for many of its engines that came out before that grade was widely available. I found this on a chart at the dealer’s parts counter a couple years ago.
Before making a decision, find out what Acura currently recommends for your engine.

I would use 5w30 (what my '88 Accord called for) or 10w30 dino every 5000 miles.
Use a high mileage version if it keeps the leak at bay.

One caution, switching brands might result in problems caused by additive incompatibility. Once you decide what you want to use, best to stick with that same brand.

Oils today are compatible.

Personally I would run 10/40W…or even 15/40 in SUMMER…and 10/30W or a little thinner in WINTER… But thats just me. I haven’t ever had an oil related failure and Im responsible for a silly number of running engines. I think it has much more to do with the oil change schedule and adhering to that schedule…than it does the weight of oil, but I like to play around. Thicker in summer and thinner in winter hasn’t failed me yet…and just makes sense to me at least.

Your Acura requires nothing special in regards to oil. I’d be more concerned with keeping that oil full and also from keeping it from seeping out as it is surely starting to Ooze from places. Dont rely on some magic product to seal any leaks…just replace the seals responsible…that is the proper and sure fire way to keep that engine oil tight.


@Honda Blackbird - thanks

I am going to use High Mileage Mobil 1 10/40

Nothing wrong with that… Unless “High Mile” oil costs more… No need for xtra expense…and name brand quality oil will do.

What are the name brands you have in your mind? BTW, Mobil also has the Mobil Super? I can buy 5 quarts of High Mileage Mobil 1 10/40 on sale for $23 + tax

What are those name brands?

You know the brands… Mobil is one of them… The 5qt deal you stated is just fine.

Other names in Oil? There are many…depending on how old you are and what you remember.

Wolfs Head
and on and on it goes… You can get into the Full Synths like Amsoil, Royal Purple, Lucas…etc

You cannot go wrong with any of the name brands. There arent 1000 oil refinery’s making their own brand of oil… Many dealer branded oils are made by the major lubricating oil companies like the names above…and even some above may be made by each other. Who knows anymore


Quaker State is good? Is it comparable to Kendall or Castrol or better than tose?

Yes absolutely… I doubt either is “better than” the other… You cannot go wrong with any name brand oil… Its that simple

Thanks @Honda Blackbird

This means Ihave two options, Firestone’s Quakerstate oil change - often there is coupon. Change every 3k

Otherwise, Mobil 1 High Mlleage as I proposed earlier.

Is one brand of oil better than others? Does any one really think that in a country such as the USA that has a lawyer on every corner going to put their name on an inferior oil.

You have A LOT of options… I vote that you buy your own supplies and change it yourself. You can bond with the machine…AND you will be more Apt to notice anything else that may be needed… such as leaks or anything really. You will learn a lot and changing the oil is SUPER EZ… dare I say you will even become a better driver…because you will understand better how your vehicle operates.

At the 160K mark you are definitely in the T belt service zone… Im assuming this is not the original belt? Even so…if its on the second belt…you are pretty much due for the next belt. No oil in the world will save her if you snap the T-belt !