I suspect that is a function of their tolerance for risk. I have pulled forward just to have someone pull ito the spot from the other end. It doesn’t happen often, but it’s hard for a car driver to see the next aisle over dues to the SUVs blocking my view. I still do the pull through, but others might be too concerned about head on accidents in the parking spot. Backing up entails similar risks, but people do what they are most comfortable with.
I rarely park in a parking but I want to be able to see in front for better parallel parking or to be alerted if there is a small person/object in front.
the 2011 ford escape limited came with these options when ordered so it might not be to hard for cameras and sensors to be installed…
302A Rapid spec order code
$2,250
Starting MSRP
- dual-zone electronic auto temp control (DEATC)
- reverse sensing system
- rearview camera
- universal garage door opener
- moonroof w/sunshade
- premium sound system
- CD/MP3 player
- (7) speakers
I think you’re fairly safe to stick with your 2011. See if you can find a local shop that will do a procedure called a “general inspection”. They’ll put the vehicle on the lift to determine if there are any problems brewing, if there’s any routine maintenance needed, etc. Not all shops offer this sort of service, you may have to search around.
BTW, I have an older Ford too. My truck is nearly 50 years old, my daily driver after Calif forced my Corolla off the road. I was doing some “general inspection” work on my truck today in fact.
George is a story we need to hear?
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I’ve already mentioned it here but briefly Calif requires emissions testing every 2 years, which for the Corolla happened to be March-April 2020, pandemic Shut-down time. OBD I vehicle require a treadmill test, which means a tech enters and drives the car for 15-20 minutes, driving it on their treadmill while their equipment monitors the exhaust emissions for HC, N, CO, etc. I wasn’t willing to take the Covid risk, so I asked for an extension until the Covid problem was resolved. Request denied by the DMV, also denied by my state’s elected representatives, so Corolla removed from the road and my new daily driver has been my truck. It’s been bad for my Corolla, but good for my truck.
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Do you think there will be a time when you can get it inspected and back on the road? As far as the truck goes my 31 year old truck is my daily driver as my 39 year old truck has some serious wireing problems.
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Not sure. It’s been so long now there may be very high fees involved to get it back on the road. This sort of information is nearly impossible to ascertain without a trip to the DMV, which isn’t something I want to do until Covid is resolved. No worries, like I say, driving the truck more often is good for it.
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Thank you! Yes, I have rear sensing and rear camera. The only safety feature that I feel I may miss is the automatic braking if something is in front of you. However, maybe not worth getting a new car if we drive carefully in daytime only 50 miles a week. What am I really missing then? I love my car (with parallel parking, revere sensing and camera, heated seats) so sounds like this isn’t a pressing need.
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the open road. LOL just enjoy what you have.
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If they can remove your lawn mower, they can remove your car or visa versa.
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That 50 miles sounds like it mostly in town . The auto braking systems are set to only be active at 30 miles per hour on most of the vehicles so it might not even be there for you most of the time.
Again I say this is a lousy time to even think about replacing a good vehicle.
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I don’t see any pull through parking spots in the picture 
sure there are… if you have a 4x4. LOL
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You should have filed a planned non-operation form, online, are you new in town?
“Planned non-operation (PNO) means that the vehicle will not be driven, towed, stored or parked on public roads or highways for the entire registration year. DMV will accept PNO filings up to 60 days before registration expires or up to 90 days after the registration expires.”
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Those dash cam’s do exist but a bunch of them don’t come with a display, some do though.
Many luxury vehicles have front view cameras, something similar can be installed by a stereo shop.
As far a crash safety the big thing that has changed is the small overlap crash test by the IIHS. The 2011 Escape has a poor rating, as do most vehicles that were designed before they started doing the test in 2012. The crash simulates what would happen if the left 25% of the vehicle hit something like a traffic light pole at 40 MPH. It also rates how the vehicle will protect you in a head on accident at the outer edge of the vehicle, such as if someone starts to make a left turn in front of you and hits the area in front of your front left wheel.
The small overlap crash is a fairly rare accident though. You’re probably safer in your 3476 pound Escape than you would be in a 2020 late model 2900 pound car. Size makes a huge difference in multi vehicle accident safety.
The other safety improvements are in the area of crash prevention. Mandatory Electronic Stability Control is one of the major changes.
Not a whole lot has changed in the last decade as far as crash tests. Vehicles are still not crash tested at speeds above 40 MPH. Evaluating the safety ratings, overall design, and size of the vehicle is more important than just getting something newer.
To be safe, make sure that the airbag warning light is off. Pay close attention to tires, especially rear tires. Don’t drive at highway speeds with front tires that may have more traction than rear tires. Always put the newer tires in the back and rotate the old ones to the front. If you live in an area with salt, inspect the brake lines for rust. Immediately prep and paint any damage to the under side of the car so that rust doesn’t start. Use a proper paint like POR15 not auto parts store stuff. Inspect the brakes with the ABS disabled to make sure that the front brakes lock up before the rear. Make sure the struts aren’t worn out and allowing the suspension to bounce up and down, especially in the rear. If you have deer install deer whistles and make sure that you buy a brand that actually work and whistle. Verify that wheel lug nuts are properly tightened, especially after tire work was done. Make sure loose objects in the vehicle are not stored up high where they can fly forward in an accident. Don’t drive too fast in rain storms, and keep in mind that it is more likely that an oncoming vehicle may hydroplane and hit you. Don’t let tailgater bully you in to going faster. Learn how to properly drive and stop your vehicle if the engine stalls.
A lot of the other suggestions are good preventative maintenance to keep your car from breaking down, but that doesn’t help with safety if you know how to drive properly. I think keeping a small dry chemical fire extinguisher in your car is a good idea. Remember to not use it until you open the hood or have access to the base or source of the fire, don’t aim at the flames.
To put things in perspective, you should be able to exceed all of the safety features of a new vehicle if you drive 5 to 10 MPH slower in this older one compared to the new one.
It was a dark and rainy night and I was tired after work. I stopped at a convenience store and when leaving drove up onto one of those islands with rocks on it. My ole Riv had a pretty hefty plate underneath so no damage but made a little noise as i backed off of it again. Of course there was a police officer there and came over to ask if I was OK. What he really wanted to know was if I was drunk. No just tired and didn’t see the dang thing, leave me alone. It’s always a question of whether or not you keep going or back up. I backed up. I think they should have reflectors or something or at least bushes planted or fence posts showing where they are.
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Not a good idea to drive slower than traffic. Speed contrast causes accidents.
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