Don’t think so, that has a much more modern dual plug and play…
I just looked at the drive axles on Rock Auto, and went outside and looked at the car again. It appears that the CV axle came apart, and part of it is still in the transmission. Is this going to be a super-big problem to deal with???
The red arrow shows where it separated. The rest of it is still in the transmission.
Don’t think it separated, just the boot is no longer attached to the shaft…
No different then any other time you would remove the axle from the car…
EZ fix here. If you can get a new boot that doesn’t cost more than a new axle and you can pull the tripod completely out of the inner cup, then you can simply cut off the steel rings, remove the circlip holding the tripod onto the shaft and slide the tripod off. The slide off the old boot, clean everything, slide on the new boot, then the tripod, the circlip and shove the tripod into the cup. Fill with the supplied grease and attach the bands.
Don’t bother rebooting the CV-joint.
The spider/bearings got pulled out of tulip.
And if you don’t reinstall the spider into the tulip where the bearings are in the exact postion they were before, the CV-joint can start making noise and/or vibrate. Not worth it.
Replace the half shaft.
Tester
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I’m not going to rebuild an axle, and I can rebuild transmissions… 
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Depends on how much access you have to pry that inner joint out of the transaxle. Sometimes they’re stuck in there, sometimes they pop out with little more than a love tap.
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…is the best answer. Along with …
I can attest to that. Long story that I won’t tell. But it’s way easier to separate the inner joint than it is to pop the shaft out of the tranny. There are multiple kinds of tools for popping out the inner shaft - starting with a basic pry bar. Whatever you do with whatever you try, go for a very rapid, hard smack. Basic prying is less effective than a hard, fast jolt. The key is getting that circlip to pop out of its slot.
Sometimes you can use 2 prybars 180* apart, cause only prying on one side can put the inner shaft in a bit of a bind keeping it from popping out… If it doesn’t come out as it should (some vehicles are just a pain to pop out) then the C-clip may have dropped a tad, try rotating the axle 90-180* to see if that helps…
Now I know some of us remember having to sneak in through the spider gears/around the pin in order to knock out the cv axle from the other side… Or the stupid roll pin that held in the cv axle, those were fun figuring out without any books or interweb the 1st time (not working at a dealer)… lol
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I know @bcohen2010 is an economical guy
I’d recommend he clean and reboot that cv half shaft
I’ve run into some decidedly inferior aftermarket cv half shafts, so it might be better to reboot an original Toyota half shaft . . . as long as it was quiet . . . versus installing a new half shaft of questionable quality
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You are correct…I am as cheap as the day is long. However, this is the only vehicle we own which is reliable enough for long-distance trips. So I want to make sure that everything is done right, with top-quality parts.
I am looking on Rock Auto, and the two drive shafts are Cardone p/n 665220 and 665218, and the transmission output shaft seals are National 710109 and 710110.
I assume I should replace both sides, at this mileage, although other people here seem to think “if it’s not broke, don’t fix it”. What do you think???
So I looked at those parts
Good . . . those particular halfshafts come with the tone rings, unlike some of the other brands
Not so good . . . the passenger side doesn’t come with the damper
please confirm your existing passenger halfshaft does indeed have that damper
I know some of the other guys will say the damper’s absence doesn’t matter
But you asked for MY thoughts
What do you mean by “damper”? I looked at other brands, as well as the remanufactured OEM (Cardone 605217, 605219) and I don’t see a difference. The tone rings are not important, as the car was ordered with no ABS.
Ok, I checked the car, and neither drive shaft has a vibration dampener. So I will order the parts, and hopefully this will not be too difficult. Anything else I should replace, or any tool that I should buy? I already own a 5 LB slide hammer with various attachments.
Sometimes prying the CV-joint out the of transaxle can be difficult. If that happens, some parts stores rent this tool that can be attached to a slide hammer to yank the CV-joint out.
Tester
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I’ve done quite a few of these back in the day when boots only lasted about 4 years and NEVER had a problem with vibration or noise from them. But it turns out that a set of boots today can cost more than an aftermarket axle shaft so I can agree with your “Not worth it” part.
06 Nissan Sentra left axle, $45 from rock auto. Boots $50 ea. from the dealer, $30 ea. from Napa. OK $13-15 ea. from Rockauto, but still a lot of work.
Lucky!
REPLACE CV JOINT
If you opt to replace a damaged boot, the CV joint should be removed from the shaft, disassembled and inspected for wear or damage. On most applications, the outer CV joint is held on the shaft by a snap ring or a lock ring, but some, such as Honda and Toyota can be tricky to remove. And if you run into a tripod outer CV joint on an old Toyota Tercel or Nissan Sentra, disassembly is not possible. The entire shaft assembly must be replaced.Rzeppa-style CV joints can be disassembled by tilting the inner race to one side and inserting a dowel or similar tool into the splines of the inner shaft. Tilt the race as far as it will go to one side to expose one of the balls. Remove the ball from its cage window with a small screwdriver. The inner race can then be tilted to the opposite side so the next ball can be removed, and so on until all the balls have been removed. The cage can now be rotated sideways to remove it and the inner race.Look for nicks, gouges, cracks, spalling, roughness, flaking, etc. on the surface of the balls or tracks in the inner and outer races. The cage windows should also be inspected for dimples, wear or cracks. Each ball should fit snugly in its respective cage window because looseness here is what often causes the clicking or popping noises associated with a worn CV joint.NOTE: CV joints are precision fit assemblies. The balls should be kept in order so they can be reassembled in the same grooves and cage windows as before. Each ball and track develop a unique wear pattern, so don’t mix them up.
Tester
