What exactly holds a drive shaft into a FWD transmission, and how to properly reinstall?

I am replacing all of the struts on my 2004 Toyota Corolla with new quick-struts.

I already did the passenger side, which was not too difficult, and cleaned up the rotor with a sanding block and fine-grit sandpaper, and replaced the brake pads.

Today, I pulled the driver side strut, and even though I put something under the control arm to prop it up, the drive shaft pulled out of the transmission. I see a lot of grease where it came out, so I don’t know if something is leaking.

I need to know what I should do in order to ensure that the transmission will work properly and not leak transmission fluid, which it never did before. The car currently has about 150,000 to 160,000 miles on it.

First, make sure the C-clip is in the groove on the end of the drive shaft.

If there isn’t one you need to get one. If there is, it’s weak and needs to be replaced.

When the shaft comes out there’s going to some fluid loss. Normal

When reinstalling the shaft, make sure not to drag the splines on the end of the shaft over the seal in the transmission. That’s how the seal gets cut and leaks.

Tester

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The inner CV joint will leak grease if pulled apart. Transmission fluid can leak out if the inner CV joint is removed from the transmission.

Some clarity would help. Did the splined inner CV shaft pull out of the transmission? )See the pic from Tester). If so, then it didn’t leak grease, but transmission fluid, which will be a tiny amount. And you’ll want a new c-clip as Tester’s post said. (And you might think about about replacing the shaft seal while you’re in there).

OR…

did the inner CV joint separate? In that case you’d get grease. And in that case, I’d just get a whole new half-shaft. Otherwise, it’s take the whole thing out and learn how to clean and re-pack, and re-boot a CV half-shaft.

Well, upon closer inspection, the CV boot on the transmission side is torn. A small part of it is still clamped to the drive shaft. And the stuff in it looks like gray grease, though it may be transmission fluid mixed with dirt.

Transmission fluid leaking means the cv axle inner joint came out, grease means you pulled the inner joint apart or the boot/axle needs replacing…

Pics please if unsure…

EDIT looks like 3 of us were posting at the same time… lol

I thought I attached the pics…



Well the 1st 2 show nothing that you are concerned about…
The 3rd shows an inner boot that needs replacing, but I would just replace the whole axle… But I don’t think you pulled it apart or out of the transmission, just the boot didn’t stretch cause it is junk now…

That CV boot has been torn for a while, you noticed the problem when the strut was removed.

Yes, the entire drive shaft pulled out of the transmission. I assume I should replace the entire drive shaft and the shaft seal in the transmission. Should I do that on both sides? Any other parts needed? Should I go with remanufactured OEM, which is actually more expensive, or new aftermarket?

Did you push the joint back into the transmission before taking the picture? Inner CV joints don’t disengage from the transmission that easy.

Note that the inner CV joint is a telescopic joint, the shaft is designed to move in/out 3 inches.

If you are competent in replacing seals then go for it, they are cheap… But we can not say for sure it needs replacing cause we don’t know if you damaged it or not… New axle…
If no issues with the other side, leave it alone…

Might want to replace the sway bar end links while you are at it… lol

Yes, I am replacing the sway bar links. You never reuse those, as the ball joints wear out by the time the struts are bad.

So you are of the opinion that I just need to replace the driver side shaft, and shaft seal, and that I should not replace the other side?

Any torn boots?
Any clicking while turning?
Any vibrations under acceleration?
Is the axle seal leaking??

If yes to any of those then yes, if no to all, why bother??

Nevada asked a good question also…

I did not realize this. It might have moved about an inch, which made me believe that it completely disengaged. I take it you believe the movement is normal? When I replaced the strut on the passenger side, the drive shaft did not move at all.

After replacing the left side axle, let’s see if you still have enough ambition to replace the other side.

I figured out what happened to the radio from your Plymouth.

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Movement is normal but the torn boot is not, the vehicle is not disabled but the boot/axle will need to be replaced at some time.

As you tilt the steering knuckle in and out, you will see the axle shaft move in and out, you may not have noticed that on the right side.

Yes the cv axle has to be able to collapse and expand as the suspension moves up and down going over bumps and stuff all while being able to turn from lock to lock while the suspension is doing it’s thing, if not then it would jam into the transmission case and damage it

Is that an old 8-track player holding up the control arm?


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Good catch. That’s the stock AM/FM/cassette player from my 1995 Caravan, which I upgraded to the official Chrysler AM/FM/CD/cassette stereo from a junkyard. If I ever get the P-Body running again, I’ll put the same type of stereo in it.