last June 2019 I replace both axles and all the tie rods on a 2006 Ford fusion 4-door with a 4-cylinder in it automatic transmission it has 217000 miles on it. everything went exactly like it was supposed to no problems jerk to CV axles out with the the old standard all thread rod and vise grips using the brake rotor as a slide hammer… driver side inner CV joint I thought was bad made noise removed the axle all but the hub which is stuck in the transmission Axel still perfect shape the hub will not come out I have tried everything from the standard slide Hammer tool to the all thread rod to the muffler clamp behind it to the crowbar behind it now I hook to it a 8 foot by 1 inch slide rod with a 85 lb hammer tool I slide the 85 lb hammer down the rod and when it impacts it shark the whole car off of the jack stands but did not remove the hub I secured the car and slid the hammer tool several more times to know nothing it did not move not even a fraction nothing is cracked nothing The hub wobbles a little bit cuz it wobble before I even that’s why I started this job so what and how can that hub be stuck so solidly Jetta 85 lb slide hammer with a 6-foot slide area well not dislodge it how is that possible
I wish I could send you the I think it’s 1 minute and 30 second video I made of me trying to use that gigantic slide hammer I wish I knew how to post a video on I might give it a try here in a minute last June when I replace both axles they out they come out just like that breezy the what-you-call-it the I called you Siri hub The hub is wallowing around in place worries in the transmission it don’t seem like the female receiver shaft inside the transmission is wobbling it just seems like it’s just the the CV housing I mean I can other video in the morning I’m going to build another slide rail danker I guess you call it Yanks it out talk to a local shop Daisy put a hundred twenty pounds on it I got 85 pounds almost Yankee loose off the jacks eBay I appreciate you replying and imma imma try again with the bar I try to call I got a 4-foot wrecking bar for a demolition and I want to try that again just to see thanks again
easiest way is to upload the video to You Tube and then link to it here
I tried the pickle fork… with the car off in park…with the car on and drive… with the hub spinning…also tried a big nail bar , crow bar… last option left build Gizmo 3 on my Facebook page under my name Terry McWilliams you can say Gizmo one fail w/its 60 lb slide… Gizmo 2, a failure when snapping the half inch all thread rod… Gizmo 3 quite possibly the largest slide Hammer (on Rails) ever engineered… we’ll have a 150 lb slide on 4 foot pull it will not fail at the slide rail system… and the all thread rod connecting the chain is a 5/8 rod should not fail it will be posted to Facebook also under my name Terry McWilliams… talk to to marbury Cecil mechanic shops here in my community of Greenville Texas they haven’t clue I can see why it will not come out I posted I mean I made a short video but I cannot get the file to change to an acceptable file type to download to this trite I downloaded a video converter but obviously don’t know how to use it anyway we’ll see what happens
Before using that, I’d strongly recommend getting 2-2’ or 3’ crow bars. Borrow or buy. Come up from the bottom with one crow bar on each side of the inner CV joint so the pressure being applied is 180 degrees apart. Put equal pressure on each crow bar to pry it out. It should pop out easily. Putting pressure on one side only maybe cocking the splines so they are jamming in the transmission.
When all else has failed I have removed the opposite side CV axle and installed a long punch through the housing against the stuck joint and while keeping constant pressure pulling on the stuck joint tapped it outward.
Okay… With it being so stuck that all of that way I just uploaded a video of the apparatus to slide hammer if you will now I’ve used to smaller versions of the same thing on it one with 60 lb and one with 85 and it hasn’t budged so I haven’t hit it with that hundred seventy lb slide Hammer yet… it is 1 in the afternoon here in Greenville Texas pretty hot but I’m fixing to go out there and finish up a few little odds and ends I have on the rigging like adding an all thread bolt to top what just won’t be jerking it from the bottom then I will see of what could be holding it that’s my question MY QUESTION IS WITH JUST A LITTLE C CLIP HOLDING IT IN THERE CUZ I CHANGE BOTH OF THEM LAST JUNE AND YOU PUT THAT LITTLE CLIP THAT HOLDS IT IN THERE WHAT IN THE WORLD COULD POSSIBLY BE KEEPING THAT THING IN THERE BECAUSE THE DRIVER THIS AXLE HAS A MALE SPLINE ON EACH END ONE FOR THE ROTOR ONE FOR THE TRANSMISSION IT GOES INTO A FEMALE SPLINE GEAR INSIDE THE TRANSMISSION WAS JUST THAT ONE LITTLE CLIP HOLDING IT WHAT COULD POSSIBLY BE HOLDING IT FROM COMING OUT WITH THE ALL THAT WEIGHT JERKING ON IT. I’M GOING TO FILM A SHORT FILM OF ME WORKING IT WITH THIS 170 LB THEN I WILL UPLOAD IT.
Putting even force on each side is important. I’d also prevent metal-to-metal contact between the pry bars and the casing - maybe with pieces of wood taped to the bars. The casing is brittle, compared to the steel levers. In fact, if some 2X4s fit, I’d try them first.
Done it… Pry bars crowbars nail bars rock bars the pickle fork (for tie rods) let’s see what else I’ve hit it from the front side the backside of topside I’ve tried vice grips welding clamps muffler clamp put a muffler clamp behind it tighten that up that didn’t work too good I just busted the u-bolt you name it … I’ve watched every video on the internet it’s ever been thought of by any mechanic anywhere I’ve tried it I’m uploading a video the 85 lb slide Hammer which SNAPPED the 3/8 all thread rod that was used on Gizmo 1 and Gizmo 2. (That’s what I called the tool I was using… I had told my mother I’m just going to try using this Gizmo),
It has always appeared to me that the impact to overcome the spring clip is nominal but critical and success required getting a constant, somewhat straight steady pull on the joint and then applying a quick jolt.
I have a yoke that clamps onto the joint and attaches 2 chains to a slide hammer allowing for a straight pull and it is very effective but many times the joint is sunk into a cove that doesn’t allow getting the clamp on. in that case I have often welded the ends of the chains to the housing (BTW, removing the shaft and joint greatly improves the situation) when the core value is minor.
Good luck with the Atlas method and I hope there’s no esce$$ damage or personal injury as a result.
Yes sir that’s what I’m hoping but the car is a 2006 Ford focus for the 4-cylinder his value is not much at all except monetary value anyway… It is an excellent work car and gets awesome gas mileage and the transmission when shifting absolutely fall asleep last year vacuum I changed both drive axles and the and the tie rod ends not a problem easy off easy in one day easy. The driver side inner CV just had a noise coming from there and I took my listening probing found it to be very close to that area upon removal of course the rest of the axle come out of them CV housing which the axel proved to be absolutely perfect… The hub however if you call it that I don’t know the technical term for the actual CV joint covering her or housing I call it to CV hub it wobbles a little bit but was driveable I’m quite sure now after all the work done to it that it wouldn’t be driving it’s leaking seriously I’m going if I ever get The hub out I’m going to replace the bearing and seal the car is really too good to just throw away but I have no choice I’m just going to keep tinkering with it until SOMETHING happens… thank you for your well wishes and your advice of course I will post later and let everyone know exactly but it was what it was it is a complete mystery to everybody I’ve ever talked to about it thanks again.
Try rotating what’s left of the CV-joint 180 degrees and then see if it comes out.
If it doesn’t, you’re going to have to blast.
Tester
Yeah the the boot and pull the axle out anyway like I say it’s CV joint I took that out of the hug again with first thing I did was dropped all my apparatus I mean dropped all my hardware at the spindle exedra and just pulled in the drive axle out of the stuck hub. if I had abused it already so much I can put it right back in there and just drive it to some shop or or either just drive it to catastrophic failure but it’s it’s personal now and I’ve already got about man off and on I ain’t work full days it’s like day number 17 I probably got about 50-60 hours in it Tamara bass back out now it’s like a like a mission to me being a Marine it’s a fulfill the mission and never leave a man behind so don’t have any men missing so I got you a nasty feeling mission that’s funny not really but it is kind of personal because I know I’m smarter then that blind and that little c clip I bet got offered together again I got the two rods on it I got a course dim my chain was too short and so I just took a cable out of my come along and I’m going to use the cable I’m hooking it up right now I had to take some of the weight off of 170 lb understand 3 lbs too much I couldn’t handle it bode bode the bar you know so I had to like hold up on the bar and pull backwards to some I’m doing it with 125 lbs. But with a full 36in pull… Of course I’ll take some steals and a video I don’t know if I upload it to the video where the rod broke but like I say I got two rides now in the horizontal from one another well not really hard on almost though it’s so hot here in Greenville Texas it is absurd it just zapp’s out of your oatmeal right out of you… I’ll keep you posted.
Yeah by the way if my grammar and punctuation seems kind of messed up I used talk to text it’s hard for me to type I mean I have a size 17 ring finger so it in the mouth hands are just too big used to sit on keypads so you probably know talk-to-text can I try to watch it type and proofread it but I don’t know the time so if I sound like an idiot I’m not it’s just the talk-to-text…
Know anyone who works at a body shop? Might try a Marine group on Facebook for a fellow Marine in your area that has access to one of those hydraulic expanding tools that are used in body repair. You slip a little puck inbetween the CV joint and the transmission, apply a little pressure and then just tap the joint as you add more pressure. The vibration while under pressure may move something that is in the way. Just a little pressure at first.