Really?
Watch what this guy does to remove the axle.
@ the 20:25 time stamp.
Tester
See the pic Tester posted way back when - what holds it in is just that spring steel c-clip. Getting it out requires a strong, very sharp shock.
If you canāt find a way to get a normal pry bar in there, you can likely find a slide hammer tool through a loaner program at a big box auto parts store near you. āBuyā the (probably already used) tool, and return within X days for a full refund.
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Yeah I have about beat them to death getting them out beforeā¦ lol
When I replaced the left one in the 2009 Matrix/Vibe manual, I lost a few battles before finally winning the war on the popping the axle out, sometimes you need 2 prybars (or large flat head screw drivers) to put equal pressure on both sides (as close to it as you can) of the inner cv joint to get them to pull outā¦
A lot of inner cv axle joints have machined āgrovesā in them to help get a bite on or for the tool shown in the above postā¦
itās āinterestingā how the carās being supported
Iāve actually seen guys end up in a BAD way doing that
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Good catch sir, yeah the rubber jack stand in front and then the even worse motorhome/trailer leveling stand behind the wonderful screw jack that I barely trust holding up an exhaust system sure kept the vehicle from moving while pulling on the axle by handā¦
Defiantly a You Tube certified mechanicā¦ lolā¦ 
Youch. Wasnāt paying attention to that.
Well, I tried at it into the night with several different pry bars and crowbars, still no luck. I am going to see if I can buy the attachment for my 5 LB slide hammer. I just canāt believe how tight this thing is. The instructions literally say to āgive it a strong tugā meaning by hand, and it should pull out. When I pulled the motor and transmission from my Sundance, the drive shafts just pulled out.
If I knew this was going to be so difficult, I would have sold the car āas isā rather than buy all these parts and attempt to fix it. I missed out on several cars at excellent prices while this one just sits here, not usable, and costing me money for insurance, etc. I need this running soon, because the license plate expires in June, and it has to go through emissions testing to renew.
There comes a time when you need to get rid of ALL your old garbage cars . . . not talking collectible classics . . . and get something new(er) and reliable
No 1997 Camry
No 1989 Caprice
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To be fair, any vehicle can be reliable with proper maintenance and repairs using good quality parts. Even my Daewoo Lanos, which was the butt of jokes when new, is as reliable as anything else on the road now. The low-quality parts which sent most of these to the junkyard have already been replaced with redesigned aftermarket parts.
In fact, one of the cars I saw on Craigslist, which I would have liked to buy if I had space, was a 2005 Chevrolet Aveo5 with just over 100,000 miles, and being sold for $1000 because it overheated (most likely due to the poorly-designed plastic thermostat housing, or possibly the poorly-designed cardboard composite head gasket). All of that, and more, would be replaced with vastly superior aftermarket parts, and then it would be reliable. Iād say I could have had that car in tip-top shape for about $2k, including the cost to buy it, as well as the cost to buy parts online, and the machine shop labor to check and recondition the head.
I disagree
For many cars, there comes the day when parts are unavailable and unrepairable
How much time and money do you want to throw at unreliable heaps that arenāt even worth $1500 on a good day?
Do you want to spend every single weekend fixing it, only to wonder what will fail the next weekend
Gimme a break
You can get just the attachment, but maybe not locally. A big box loaner tool version wonāt cost you anything once you return the tool. And you can probably get your hands on one right away.
The slots in the CV joint can be useful for a pry bar or hammer.
Using a large chisel or drift, strike in this direction with a 3 lb. hammer. You may not be able to get a straight shot at it because of the transmission housing but force in that general direction will dislodge the circlip.
You could have finished installing the strut and continued driving the car until you could get the axle replaced, the job only pays about an hour. That axle boot may have been torn for years before you noticed, another year wouldnāt make any difference.
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I had to use this thing to get CV axle out of my Toyota manual trans. Really didnāt seem like it should have needed so much force.
I have changed both Axles on our Sonata and one of them came apart. When you use the pry bar, you have to use āimpactā rather than pressure/pull. You are trying to pop that O ring out of its groove.
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Circlipā¦ sorryā¦ lol
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You donāt HAVE to remove the inner cup, you can put a new boot on it in place if you have the proper boot kit. Just clean up what you have, remove the tripod from the end of the axle (there s a small circlip on the end of the axle holding it in place) and slide the old boot off. Clean everything. Slide on the new boot, add the tripod, fill the boot with brease and slide it into the cup. Stretch the boot in place and clamp, good to go.
Much harder if you have the birfield inner joint. If you do, you are allready screwed as the balls have probably all fallen out by now.
The trick on removing the inner cup is to pop it out, do not pry, it wont pry out. Use a pry bar or long screwdriver and give it a good pop. Save the circlip for the new axle as the ones that come with the new axles are usually a little bigger and much harder to reinstall.
Iāve done what you described a few times 
Looking back at your picture, I believe that someone has already replaced your OEM axles with aftermarket axles, and if the circlip is the aftermarket one, that would explain why yours is so hard to remove. Getting a replacement boot kit for that will be almost impossible. Give it a real good hard pop.