No, when I played with it, it was years before the vibration started. I just didn’t know what the purpose of the O/D until now.
Using O/D correctly in normal conditions is simply selecting “D” and leaving it there. The only time 3rd is an advantage is towing and mountain passes.
I see. So because of the failing TC, the suggestion is that I should be O/D off all the time?
No. I am suggesting you follow the instructions in Twin Turbo’s page from the 2000 Cr-v owner’s manual to keep O/D on except for steep inclines. When was a failing TC diagnosed and by who?
We don’t have much steep incline roads here. The entire thread has been discussing why I had vibration and I thought we come to the conclusion (at least tentatively) that the TC is on its way out. If I do what the book says, that’s what I have been doing, basically not using O/D so the default is on.
Is turning O/D off a way to disable lock up? Sorry I am quite ignorant about this.
I showed you that so you could do a test that might confirm if you are experiencing torque conveter shudder. If you turn off the O/D mode, the transmission will not shift into the highest gear. It probably will not lock up the torque converter either in that mode. On some cars they call that the tow/haul mode because it prevents the transmission from hunting between say 3 and 4 and lugging the engine with torque converter locked up. So try turning off O/D mode and drive through the speed range that gives you trouble. Yes, the engine will be turning faster due to the lower gear but it won’t hurt anything.
You should change that trans fluid now. Especially since it could be part of the problem. It’s past due .IMO
I see. Why do you think the transmission fluid could be part of the problem? I thought it doesn’t need to be changed often. Maybe it has been too long? How often do you guys change transmission fluid?
I’m becoming afraid we are banging our heads against a wall. I’m seeing another 150+ post thread.
2 Likes
The fluid is an integral part of the transfer of power from the engine to the wheels. When it gets worn out, it can cause these types of problems.
When there’s a suspicion of an automatic transmission problem, the advice from the experts here is pretty consistent, the next step is a proper transmission service. That usually means dropping and cleaning the pan, replacing the filter, and filling with fresh fluid. In your case Honda’s fluid. If that helps but doesn’t fix the problem entirely, drive for a couple weeks, then do it again.
You’ll need to consult a shop to help you with that I expect, and at the same time ask them if it is possible to temporarily disable the lock-up function. Whether it is possible and if so how it is done varies by make/model/year.
Disabling the lock up function wouldn’t affect mpg significantly, that’s how all cars were before the 1980’s. It might show up as a little increase to your monthly gasoline bill if you do mostly freeway speed driving.
An automatic transmission uses a part called a torque converter to replace what is the clutch on a manual transmission. It’s like an automatic clutch, and is what allows you to come to a dead stop while still in D without stalling the engine. As would happen if you had a manual transmission and forgot to shift into neutral at stops. To do that the torque converter has to be designed to slip, allowing the engine to turn at a faster speed than the transmission. The problem with that is slipping reduces mpg. The lock-up function causes the automatic transmission to emulate a manual transmission clutch at speeds over 35 mph, so it doesn’t slip at higher speeds, which improves mpg.
Thank you for the detailed explanations. I will get the fluid replaced and see what happens.
I left my car with the shop for the trans fluid change this morning. They said they would not replace filter or pan because they might open a can of worms since it had not been changed for so long. They will replace the fluid only. They said it might need another change soon after (in a few months).
On the way to the shop, I tested the O/D button. It really worked :-). What I found was that from idle the transmission shifts 4 times instead of 3 that I thought, to the highest gear. The shifts happened at about 15, 30 45 and 50mph. The O/D button will stop the shift after the first two shifts, so basically leaving the transmission in the 3rd gear. There would be two more shifts before it gets to highway speed. This did prevent the vibration issue because it never got into that gear that had this problem. The RPM went to about 3K at 40+mph. So it looks like the next gear is used the most during city driving, but unfortunately the problem is also in that gear. I will report again after the fluid change after I pick up the car this evening.
OK. I think I may have finally kind of understood this puzzler. Twin Turbo’s page from the owner’s manual really helped. The shifter has no 3rd gear position. If the O/D off button is pushed the transmission will shift to 3rd and stay there. O/D on is the default and the only way for OP to drive in 3rd is to push the O/D off button every time the Honda is started. It’s the same with Traction/Stability control on my Kia. If I turn it off a dash light informs me it is off. There is still a couple of confusing statements by OP. The fourth “shift” to the non-existent 5th gear. I could not feel the torque convertor lock up in the Crown Victoria but could barely feel it in the much lighter Jeep Cherokee. Honda CR-V is probably a similar weight as the Jeep 3,000lbs. “This did prevent the vibration issue because it never got into that gear”. Third. It of course shifted into 3rd briefly. Possibly not long enough to vibrate. Yes. 3rd gear will be the vehicle’s choice for city driving but will rarely get into the 40 to 45mph vibration zone. This is another example where the owner’s manual buried at the bottom of the glove box should be exhumed and consulted.
Thanks. I always thought most AT vehicles have 4 speeds. But I really felt the gear shifted 4 times from idle to 60+mph. What does this mean if there are only 4 gears?
I still don’t understand what overdrive means. Keeping the gear on the third (after 2 shifts from idle) seems to be too low for most city driving. Most roads here have speed limit of 45 mph. So, the engine is a kind of loud (3K+ rpm). Did you mean that if I drive fast enough to 45mph in 3rd gear, I may still feel the vibration? I don’t think it will happen because it never happened in this gear in the past (but of course, it already shifted without turn off O/D). Is this really gear related or vehicle speed related problem?
Not true, some have four speeds but newer ones can have 5,6 and 8 speeds. I have to agree with Sgt Rock. This thread is not making any progress
1 Like
I agree. OP is either totally ignorant or a troll wasting our knowledge and fingertips. I’m done
1 Like
You’re not the only one OP 
I’ve never understood what all the fuss about a separate overdrive control is about. Transmissions traditionally anyway, in the highest (fastest) gear the transmission output shaft turned at the same rpm as the engine. In a sense, in that gear the engine directly drives the transmission output. It’s like there’s no transmission at all in that gear. Owners wanting to drive a lot at freeway speeds – motivated by the introduction of the federal interstate system probably – thought the engine was rev’ing too much and making too much noise at freeway speeds. And complained about it to the car sales force. So to address than customer complaint the transmission designers teamed up with the marketers & added an extra gear, a higher gear, where the transmission output shaft in that gear turns slower than the engine rpm. Since the previous high gear was a direct drive from the engine to the transmission, I guess they decided to call this new gear they added “overdrive”. And to feature that function, they thought ‘why not put an OD button on the dashboard’, something the sales force can point out to sell more cars. That’s my theory anyway. When I was in high school a friend of mine installed a fake button on his car’s dashboard which he claimed was the overdrive … lol … but it didn’t actually do anything.
It can open a can of worms, that can of worms is not far around the corner if you do not open it. Now I did trans fluid changes over the years but at 180k it would clunk sometimes putting it into cruise control, and seemed to be shifting different than normal.
Took it to my normal shop, and said I want a trans fluid change and new filter, oh, you mean a flush, no I said I mean drop the pan, do the 6 of 12 quarts and change the filter, it has been 18ok and no new filter as far as I know.
The new filter fixed the issues and 8000 miles later, the trans has been back to normal.
Not saying this will be the case for you, but if it kills it it probably does not have a long shelf life anyway.
3 Likes
I guess another way to say what Barky said above, if there’s a can of worms hidden under the transmission pan, probably best to know about it now rather than later.
1 Like
This transmission does not have a pan to remove, the valve body and filter are deep inside the transmission, the transmission must be disassembled to access the filter.