I also suggest inner CVs. I had a similar problem - vibration at a certain speed but only uphill. I had no other issues with vibrations at any other speeds or conditions. Only at 50-55mph uphill.
It’s really easy to check. Look at the CV boots and if they are cracked or broken then it’s most likely the CVs. Both of mine were cracked/broken, I ended up replacing both axles. It turns out that the full axle replacement was actually cheaper than just addressing the CV joints. I even did it myself. Parts were about $120 and i had to get some special tool for about another $20. Hardest part was getting the old stuck bolt out. Plenty of how to videos.
How much would be the cost to replace CV joint usually? I don’t think I can fix this myself. Do I need to replace both sides or it is just one item? Thanks.
I’m sure the cost depends a lot on the car. You should only have to replace the one that has the issue. There are some internet tools that can give you an estimate. (repairpal is one). However, be sure to ask for the axle replacement cost as well because it may be less (more labor redoing the joint). Also, ask about options. My axles were aftermarket and WAY cheaper than OEM (by several hundred) but it up to you as to how much you want to keep OEM. My car is old so…
I just read online about the symptoms of a CV joint failure. Mine doesn’t seem to match very well. There is no clicking noise when turning and the problem has been on going for about two years now. It got slightly worse in terms of the frequency that vibration happens, but not by a whole lot. Do you still think this is a CV joint issue? I will definitely check the boots to see if there are cracks.
I didn’t have any clicking either. Easiest to just check the boots. Turn the wheels as far as you can one direction and look at the boots with a flashlight. Then repeat the other direction. You shouldn’t have to lift the car but you will probably have to get on your knees. If you don’t see any openings or ‘cuts’ in the rubber boots then it might be something else. Keep in mind you won’t have ALL the symptoms of what you see on the web. It’s such an easy check, I wouldn’t rule it out if your situation doesn’t match perfectly. If one of the boots has failed, it should be pretty obvious.
It is hard to say,but there may be a couple of factors coming into play, do you have a tach so you can tell rpm after it shifts into 3rd?
Plugs and trans fluid and filter, along with air and gas filter change up to date?
Since this is an automatic transmission, vibrations caused by a faulty lock up torque converter need to be considered too. To improve mpg the torque converter goes into lock up mode around 35 mph. It is supposed to go in and stay locked, until the vehicle speed slows way down. But sometimes when they fail they will bounce between the locked and unlocked state and create a vibration or sound. It’s usually an easy thing to test. Ask your shop if there’s a way to temporarily disconnect the lock-up function and do a test drive.
That’s interesting to know CapriR. I’ve had a rear tire vibrate one time, turns out it was unbalanced , on my truck, and it seemed to me the vibration was maybe even a little more noticeable while coasting rather than in gear. I didn’t test that idea very thoroughly tho. Next time I have a tire out of balance I’ll try what you say.
Thanks! I think you got it! This description matches mine perfectly! Too bad this will be a costly repair and it is most likely not worth it as the car is 18 years old.
Shuddering – If you start to feel shudders when driving about 30 to 45 MPH, this could mean that you have torque converter problems on your hand. It will often feel like running over rough road or bumps and you will definitely notice it when it happens. Shuddering comes and goes without warning, so once you feel it the first time you should get your transmission checked out as soon as possible. Don’t wait for it to happen again.
If that’s the problem, you might be able to just disable the lock-up function. It will still work ok, that’s how my truck is, no lock up available, but with that function disabled your mpgs might be a little lower , more noticed on freeway type driving than around town driving.
The purpose of the Engine off/trans in neutral coastdown is to eliminate other sources of vibration that can confuse things.
Besides, you don’t have to wait to try this. Just slap a weight on a wheel. May I suggest a 1oz weight on the driver’s front (1 oz because that will definitely cause a detectible imbalance and LF because that is generally the most sensitive position)
My first guess was the torque converter lock up. I haven’t owned and rarely driven a A/T since 2001 so I’m far from an expert. As I recall the torque converters locked around 40mph but only in 4th gear.
Now you got my hopes up. I have more questions :-).
Can I do the lock up myself? If so, how? If not, how much would it cost to ask a shop to do it?
I have driven like this for about 2 years. If I try to avoid the vibration as I have been doing, can I just keep driving like this? I hope the transmission doesn’t die very soon. The car only has 117K on it even though it is 18 years old.
If I get it locked up, how bad will the the gas mileage? Right now, it is about 25 mpg.
The fluid required in your Honda transmission is more specific than many other manufacturers. If someone did a fluid change/flush prior to the problem occurring, you should make sure the correct, specified fluid is being used. Probably not a bad idea to have it exchanged anyway since you are having issues. Might flush some debris out of the TC at the same time.
Many manufacturers offer a way to prevent the transmission from shifting into final gear for towing purposes. Many designs will also prevent torque converter lockup from occurring if it is not in final gear. I have no idea if this is true for your vehicle. I tried to access the Owner’s Manual for your year CR-V from Honda but the link is broken. Only get title page. So here is the relevant page for a 2000 CR-V- likely no different than yours. Start the engine and inhibit overdrive as shown. Then run the vehicle up to speed and see if the problem goes away.
Over the 18 years, I only did one transmission fluid change, so now it could be 8 to 10 years ago. I did it at a Honda specialist shop and I trust them because they did fine jobs with my other repairs. This vibration started many years after the fluid change. I remember at that time they told me they needed to check if they could do it because it had been 8-10 years before the first change :-). Will it be bad to change it now, I mean to kill the transmission sooner?
I will try the O/D. I think I tried it before and it didn’t do anything. Maybe because I didn’t understand what it really does so I didn’t use it correctly. The vibration happened when cruising in the 3rd gear. Did you mean keeping it in the 3rd gear can avoid causing more damage to the TC and vibration?
I guess the fuel economy must be that keeping in lower gear the engine will spin faster to get to the same speed?
“I will try the O/D. I think I tried it before and it didn’t do anything. Maybe because I didn’t understand what it really does so I didn’t use it correctly”.
Are you saying that using O/D did not change the vibration? Using O/D correctly in normal conditions is simply selecting “D” and leaving it there. The only time 3rd is an advantage is towing and mountain passes.
