“A transmission shop and scanner is the preferred method of course. My point about the stall test is that it’s something an individual could do in a few minutes in the driveway and could let them know whether there’s a problem or not. :-)”
I agree. It just the person doing the stall test needs to know how to “read” the results.
"It seems to me if the converter is unlocked and the stall speed is being exceeded this would point to clutch slippage inside the transmission. Right or wrong? "
Right. The converter clutch itself has nothing to do with stall. All stall has to do with is fluid coupling. This is where the turbine inside the converter cannot rotate even though the impeller is trying to rotate it. Torque multiplication is high at this point.
“I might also add this, and I will defer to transman of course. Why would the car have converter lockup on a stationary vehicle?”
It doesnt. The lockup clutch plays no part in a stall test. It is not applied. The only time you could have lockup in a stationary vehicle is when a problem is present such as a bad lockup solenoid…etc…
I guess my point through this is that if the car fails a driveway stall test this would point to slippage in the clutch drums; possibly caused by the incorrect fluid.
Sometimes I’m a bit dubious about codes, or the lack of, when it comes to certain problems. My brother in law (lives in another city) had a problem with a transmission about 6 months or so ago. The truck (a Tahoe) was scanned, fluid changed, etc, etc and the problem persisted.
There were no codes present and the truck would buck and shift hard; especially on the 2-3 shift.
Finally it was determined a solenoid was faulty, this was replaced on an educated guess, and the truck has been fine ever since. Thanks for the input; it is appreciated.
Another question. Why would the Chrysler transmission guy not recommend a fluid change back to the proper fluid? )ATF +4 isn’t it?)
Good question! You folks have. I went to the trans shop. They said replace the trans
Wouldnt show scan results and wanted 1880. So now what? Ck eng lt on again. I’m still driving it…,??
I stand by my suggestion to replace the fluid and see what happens before you spend a couple grand you may not need to spend on this car. It’s a gamble that’s worth taking. If the trans shop you took it to won’t cooperate with you (sounds like they aren’t), do not give them your business. Any decent shop can replace a transmission if they have to. If getting the right fluid in there doesn’t bring it around, the transmission probably is indeed done for and will need to be replaced, but you might as well try fixing it the cheap way first.
What kind of a trans shop was it that wouldn’t give you scan results? This is not the kind of place to trust.
One thing I will say is that given its age/mileage AND after having driven it with the wrong fluid they might be very reluctant to do anything short of replace it. Their bets will be on problems consistently coming up and wanting to avoid the constant come-backs where the customer assumes that the problem was with their work.
That said, its no reason to hold back on results of their diagnostics. I think this shop is not to be trusted.
I’m with mark though. Find a shop that will pull the pan, change the filter & do a complete fluid exchange.
From The Department Of Redundancy Department:
Take Another Look At My Second Post Where The Use Of The Wrong Fluid Was Suspected (Later Confirmed In The 3rd Post) And A Fluid Change Was First Suggested.
Notice That The Car’s Manufacturer Calls For Two Changes, 10 miles apart.
“Chrysler says don’t use Dexron II, III, or Mercon in the transaxle. Use only Chrysler specific fluid. I’m not sure, but I think ATF+4 is the latest approved fluid for this car.”
“Dexron Is Not The Correct Fluid.”
[When the wrong fluid is used] “Their fix is to change the transmission filter and fluid, drive 10 miles, and do it again.”
The OP said on Aug 31 that it was running fine and on Sept 1 dealership could not fimd anything wrong. Change the fluid and drive the darned thing until you know you have a problem
lmlerman, are you trying to find the most expensive option here? If so, go to the dealer and order a brand new transmission.
If you want the most cost effective option, replace the transmission fluid with the correct type. You can do it twice, 10 miles apart, as suggested above or for only about $100 more, you can get a fluid exchange (flush) done.
Bear in mind that when Uncle Ed did the first drain and refill, he did not get all the Chrysler fluid out, only about half of it. So it is not like you have been running on pure Dexron all this time.
The life of your transmission may have been shortened, but it sounds like it still has some life left in it. A new or reman transmission will always be an option, and except for inflation, it won’t cost you more later because you wore out this one. You won’t get a discount for replacing it early.
Right now, I would not trust Uncle Ed, but I would trust him more than this last shop you went to. I think, based on you input, that the dealer is the most trustworthy of the lot. They may charge a little more, but I’d recommend that you let them do the fluid changes and get them done soon.