Drive to death, fix or abandon ship?
Drive to death, fix or abandon ship?
We would need a lot more info. Number of miles, general condition, do you love or hate it, which engine etc?
87,000mi well preserved and maintained, no problems until now. Well loved but…does it deserve life support…$2000. quote for rebuild.
engine says 3.5L 24 valve
Thanks for responding.
Shop around for a cheaper rebuild with a local shop, probably worth doing if the car is otherwise in good shape.
Do you mean that the Torque Converter Clutch is slipping? A torque Converter always slips!
I too am wondering what is meant by “torque converter slipping.” It doesn’t describe a problem.
That 3.5L 24v DOHC Is One Sweet Engine. I Had One. It Should Be Good For Quite A Few More Miles. If Properly Maintained, That Could Be 2 To 3 Times The Number Of Miles That Are On It Now.
However, the timing belt in this engine needs to be replaced periodically (I believe Chrysler says every 120,000 miles), but most folks that frequent this site think that because of the age of your belt (14 to 15 years-old), that it shold be replaced now (providing that it never has been done). A new water pump should be considered at that time (peventive maintenance).
It’s fairly expensive (labor-wise), but a broken timing belt can practically destroy this beautiful engine. So check this out with your mechanic.
Hi all! Here’s the electrical test results:
Car had trans codes 42 : 2-4 solenoid circuit error.
Code 38: torque converter clutch out of range.
Erased coded;all solenoides ohm out at 1.8-1.9 ohms (in spec): test drove 6 mi and torque converter is slipping. The solenoid error did not return.
This was done 2 days ago. We drove120 freeway mi with check engine lt on no prob driving. Today no ck engine lt & no rpm surging & no problem shifting? So…?
All suggestions much appreciated.
Thanks for your brainstorming!
Tell Us What The Symptoms Are Of The “Torque converter slipping” Problem.
Who diagnosed this as a converter replacement required ?
Do you know if the transmission fluid has ever been changed ?
Most cars are very particular about the type of fluid that is required by the manufacturer and this one is no exception. Chrysler had to issue a bulletin about the importance of this and a “Transaxle shudder during a 3rd gear to 3rd gear partial EMCC (Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch) engagement, 3rd gear partial EMCC to 4th gear partial EMCC engagement, or 4th gear to 4th gear EMCC engagement.”
Chrysler says don’t use Dexron II, III, or Mercon in the transaxle. Use only Chrysler specific fluid. I’m not sure, but I think ATF+4 is the latest approved fluid for this car.
Their fix is to change the transmission filter and fluid, drive 10 miles, and do it again.
What are the symptoms ? What’s it doing/not doing ?
I had the trans oil changed at Uncle Eds oil change at 60,000. I’ll find out what they used.
Last yr the ck oil lt came off and on then it was thought to be a loose connection.
No prob until this wk rpms surged from the usual 2 up to 5 at 35 mph. Drove home20mi on fwy at 35 with flashers on.
Since electric eval and reset of codes no prob! What are your thoughts?
Trans oil at 60000 was dextron3,
Guess you need to talk with Uncle Ed.
Dexron Is Not The Correct Fluid. Were You Having Problems Before The Fluid Change Or Only After The Change ?
Count my vote as talking this over with Uncle Ed. A pair of cut and pastes below:
DEXRON-III is not compatible with the most recently designed transmissions, and the use of these earlier type fluids could result in transmission damage.
All DEXRON-III licenses expired at the end of 2006, and will not be renewed. Beyond that date, General Motors will only support the use of DEXRON-VI fluids for use in Hydra-Matic transmissions. Fluids claiming DEXRON-III type performance continue to be sold under abbreviated names such as Dex/Merc and D/M, however, since the DEXRON-III licensing system no longer exists, these fluids are not regulated by GM in any way.
And note the fluid shear test.
Never had a problem! I babied this car. Well maintained and ran like a top.
Car at dealer for another 90 buck diagnosis
Tomorrow. Already called Uncle Ed’s main office. Further updates tomorrow. You are all so wonderful. What a great resource for us uninitiated mortals.
Its a Chrysler - shouldn’t it be on ATF +4? I do not know the details on that car’s transmission, but my suspicion is that it has an A604 which absolutely should not be on a Dexron-like fluid at all. These things are ATF +4 or nothing.
And just in case it comes up with “Uncle Eds” (seriously?), a multipurpose ATF such as Dex/Merc (most say they meet Dex III specs) with an “additive” to turn it into Chrysler ATF +4 is a bad idea.
You should indeed use ATF+4, and not some shop’s substitute of a cheaper fluid with a ‘friction modifier’ Use only genuine ATF+4 or you will experience hard shifts and shuddering.
My 1994 3.5L is not an interference engine, but I think your 1997 may be. Which means that you should change the timing belt! I agree that these engines are reliable. I have 260K on mine and it runs well and burns no oil.
As far as the ‘slipping’, can you provide more information?