Hi oblivion,
What more can I provide? Have posted earlier all the specifics that I could come up with so far. Maybe tomorrow the dealer will have more specific info. I wish i could be more helpful.
Thanks so much.
Lmlerman
What oblivion (and I, in an earlier post and Elly Ellis) are after is an exact description of what you mean by the torque converter “slipping.” This doesn’t actually refer to anything - largely because, as Elly Ellis noted, a torque converter does slip - that’s a large part of its job.
So give a description of what you actually feel/hear/etc. rather than just saying “slipping.”
An automatic transmission that is slipping is noticed when the engine revs up high when you hit the gas, but the power doesn’t make it to the wheels. But that is slipping of clutches inside of the transmission, not the torque converter.
"rpms surged from the usual 2 up to 5 at 35 mph. Drove home20mi on fwy at 35 with flashers on. Since electric eval and reset of codes no prob!
If that was your description of the actual issue then it actually sounds like a transmission in “limp mode.” For this transmission (which I actually think is an A606) if the computer detects the problem it will leave the transmission in 2nd gear and not allow it to shift. At least that’s how it goes on the A604. The purpose is to save the transmission from damage.
I would also add that full words and sentences help a lot. The “texting” mode of communication is great for telling someone to get milk on their way home. For complex car issues, its hard enough without having to navigate partial sentences & words.
OK. So now I get it. Yes the 1st guy thought the clutch was slipping. The car wouldnt shift automatically and the rpms zoomed up but no greater speed. When I mamually shifted up it engaged and drobe fine. The problem is not constant. 2 days with no ck eng lt on and no high rpms. This car always ran 2 rpms. When it surged up to 5 I got nervous.
Hope this clarifies.
Thank you.
Lmlermam
The 5k at 35 mph was probably the transmission in “limp home mode” A drain and refill with +4 may fix your problem. This is one of those rare times that I might suggest that the transmission get a “flush”.
If you want to tell the difference between slipping and limp mode:
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if slipping you would press on the gas, the engine would rev up but the car would almost feel like its in neutral for a while - it wouldn’t really respond with any power.
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if in limp mode you would press on the gas and the engine would rev up but would feel the power. Of course, if this is the case limp mode is still just a guess. You have/had a shift solenoid problem (code 42).
What you really need is to find your best local, independent transmission shop to get it in the hands of someone who is competent. I don’t know who or what "Uncle Ed’s " is but I probably wouldn’t trust them to check my tire pressure, and absolutely wouldn’t take them a transmission.
The transmission in your car absolutely must have ATF+4 or else it will not live long. You are currently finding that out. If you replace the fluid now with the correct fluid (may not hurt to do it two or more times), you may be able to save it. You may also want to inform Uncle Ed of his mistake and never patronize his shop as punishment for the attempted murder of your transmission. Frankly, I’m surprised it has lived this long.
You can try this test for transmission slippage if you want. With the engine warmed up place the shift lever in LOW. set the park brake, hold the foot brake, and quickly try to rev the engine. You should feel the engine stall out. Note the RPMs at which the engine balks and will rev no higher. Allow the engine to idle for a few minutes.
Repeat this process in SECOND, allow to idle, and repeat in DRIVE while noting the converter stall RPMs. Do NOT do this in Overdrive.
I don’t know what the converter stall is on this car but generally they’re around 2000 RPMs, give or take a little. If the RPMs go up to about 3000 or so then the clutches in the transmission are probably slipping and this is going to mean the transmission is on borrowed time; likely due to the use of Dexron III.
Back in the old days you could stick Dexron or Type F into about anything on the planet with no problem but that’s all changed. I’m in agreement with cigroller about getting a transmission shop to take a look at this and Uncle Ed sounds like a shaky operation to me too.
How do you get a car in “overdrive” when it is standing still?
The same way you get it in Reverse, Drive, or any other gear. Did I say the car was going to actually move one inch?
How do you get a car in “overdrive” when it is standing still? For that matter, how do you get it into “second” gear? Don’t you know that 99% of cars will start off in 1st gear regardless of where you put the selecter? (except reverse, of course).
First of all, you do have the wrong fluid in there. DexIII Will affect the converter clutch. Second, a good scanner will tell you the amount of slippage in the converter. Dont take anybodies word on converter slippage. Scan it, read the live data on converter slip rpm and %.
And Ellis, ok4450 is referring to the gear selector position being in the OD position. When you are doing stall tests like he is suggesting the different gear positions will cause different friction elements to be applied or released. A stall test does not only check for excess converter slippage it checks for weak friction elements. A stall test can be deceiving because a clutch itself could be slipping. A good trans tech can tell the difference. This is why I recommend checking slip rpm by scanner.
transman
I’m not a tranny guy, but I did want to add a voice of support for the adivce of Transman and of OK4450. I’ve been frequenting this forum for some years now, and these two have IMHO proved themselves to be some of the most knowledgable people here. Transman in particular has distinguished himself as the tranny guru.
With tranny issues in particular, Transman’s advice is the best you’ll get. Follow it with confidence, no matter what others may say.
Well guys heres the update from Chrysler tranny guy today. " star scanned/test drove numerous times , no stored/active failure codes,veh drove as designed fluid full & red". So…the dealer rep said we cant find anything wrong so no chArge, come and get it!!! The odometer showed 30 mi more on delivery. They saw no ck eng lt on and said come right back if it lts up again. So whre do I go for a tranny scan?
You’re all the BEST!!!
Just got an a.m. appt for tranny scan and would like to show them the thread here if it’s OK with you.
Thanks again for your generosity.
We welcome OPs to print our threads and bring them to a shop. A good shop will do their own diagnosis, but a good tech will never turn down offered information. One cannot have too much information.
TRANSMAN: I agree that a stall test might be in order, BUT I don’t think you will get a different reading in 1,2,3 or drive or overdrive. The thing will be in 1 in any of the selections. Now I have owned 2 vehicles that had 2nd gear start off when placed in 2nd. One was a Cruse-o-matic and the other was a '99 S-10 Chevy.
Its all going to depend on the condition of the friction elements. Changing the gear selector will change friction elements but it will not change the converter clutch. If all of the clutch assys are holding tight you should get a good stall test. Converter clutch slippage needs to be checked by scanner and not by a stall test. The scanner is more accurate.
transman
A transmission shop and scanner is the preferred method of course. My point about the stall test is that it’s something an individual could do in a few minutes in the driveway and could let them know whether there’s a problem or not. 
My concern would be if the wrong fluid was used and this was causing converter slippage then there could be slippage all the way through the transmission.
Replace the converter, the slippage there is gone, and then the clutches start slipping inside the transmission?
Assume for the sake of discussion the transmission is shifting fine at the moment, no codes, etc, etc.
What about after the moment; say in 6 months or a year? The car has 87k miles but what if the transmission is trying to go belly-up at 100k?
I might also add this, and I will defer to transman of course. Why would the car have converter lockup on a stationary vehicle?
Most require some speed (40 MPH to pick a number) as determined by the speed sensor and since the output shaft is not turning the sensor would be 0.
The brake pedal is firmly depressed during the entire test which should keep the converter unlocked.
It seems to me if the converter is unlocked and the stall speed is being exceeded this would point to clutch slippage inside the transmission. Right or wrong?
The OP said on August 31 that the car was doing fine. I think he should just “shut up and drive” as the song says.
I had a broken arm one time and had trouble shifting my pickup. As I was going down the street one day my trans started slipping. Then I discovered that it was between neutral and drive. Never had another problem with it!!