It got the stuck wheel off my tiller. I think that wheel has been on there since it was manufactured in 1977.
Maybe I will try it on my Scotts/JD rider, it has no brakes and I have not been able to get the right rear wheel off. PB Blaster and a wheel puller have not been able to move it. It’s not much of a problem because I am the only one that operates it. It did make it harder to change the tire.
I have had good luck with small engines just using some carb cleaner in the tank.
Something with the fuel system was my impression of the problem, also.
I guess that this kind of treatment can work, I’m just pretty skeptical that a quart of additive would have much one-time affect when diluted in 20 gallons of gas (hence why I added it to a nearly empty tank).
But, I’m a computer programmer, not a chemical engineer.
Thank you, I wondered about the names. I do add it to my outboards fuel in as much as the ethanol free gas may not have the detergent adatives.
Have you tried 50/50 acetone and ATF combined with a big ol’ rubber hammer? That stuff has yet to fail me, even getting rusted bolts off of an upper midwest car.
No, I tried PB Blaster, a 4lb hand sledge, and a wheel puller. Since I live near Buffalo NY I am very familiar with rust.
If I remember right, Taryl has a youtube on it somewhere. Heat the hub up and use wax to melt in the axle. Use or make a wheel puller like I did. Once it’s off, put a little anti-seize on it. I was planning on doing a trans overhaul so made sure I could get the wheels off first, then had a tire get punctured so glad I could get it off.
More or less what I did, except I used Seafoam Deep Creep. Using the sledge turned out to be a big mistake as it knocked loose a retainer and damaged all the thrust washers. I drilled three holes through the wheel near the hub and used a steering wheel puller. Sprayed on the Deep Creep and put tension on the puller and left overnight. Came loose three days later.
Troy Bilt Horse tiller mfg Nov 77. New thrust washers and retainers on order.
I’ve had good luck w/that combination for penetrating and rust-bond breaker oil too. Usually when I make a batch it is equal portions of acetone, ATF, and WD 40. The reason is I tend to have plenty of the last two, but always seem to be low on acetone. I’ve made it 50/50 acetone and ATF also, didn’t notice much difference in performance. I think it is the acetone that is what does the rust-breaking job and the ATF is just acting as a light weight oil that moves the acetone along to where it is needed. I use Mercon 5.
My tractor wheels already had holes for a wheel puller. I sprayed PB blaster on for a week. put tension on it with the puller, tapped the wheel outward and the axle inward and kept tightening the puller. Succeeded only in bending the wheel, decided I didn’t need brakes all that badly anyway.
BTDT. A man has to know when to concede a battle not worth winning
I have used SF and think it has its uses. It will clean out a dirty intake nicely by dissolving crud. I have used it in the oil to clean out neglected engines as well. It can also act as a fuel injector cleaner.
The one issue is if the car is REALLY neglected, you can break loose too much stuff at once and plug injectors or oil passages. I have never had this happen but have heard from people who have had that happen. They add SF to a sludged engine and suddenly more problems appear.
Yeah, this isn’t a miracle product but has its uses in some cases.
I shoulda read the fine print. I was hoping it would fix my headlights.
Yeah i’ve been putting off waxing the cars for winter. Maybe I’ll just add Seafoam instead.
SeaFoam instead of Green Slime in my tires?
I used sea foam to free a sticking lifter in a $450 (scrap price at the time) truck. I’d never used it before. I went looking for a “miracle in a can” oil additive that specifically said it could free a stuck lifter. Not something I’d normally do, but I didn’t have much to lose. I’m pretty sure it mentioned stuck lifters on the back of the can. I poured it in the engine oil in the Wal Mart parking lot with the engine idling (and ticking). Slowly, the ticking disappeared. I was pretty surprised it worked. A little transmission fluid in the oil worked just as well, so I just used that from then on.
Acceleration is still smooth and responsive. Oddly my tires balanced themselves, too!