They had manufacturing flaws. My point was; use higher viscosity oil if would like to, it is not too thick for the clearances and won’t harm the variable valve timing as some have said.
Now they were talking about the two stage oil pump not pumping enough with the ten speed or whatever trans. Who knows for sure but eric defiantly showed main bearing destruction. Why just one bearing though.
Something has to be the first… when a critical bearing fails, usually can’t keep driving until more of them fail.
I would ask what basis you have for claiming it’s not too thick for designed clearances? Empirical evidence that you’ve never seen a failure you could attribute to that? Do mechanics often drill to root cause or do they just repair the problem?
Nobody said it would “harm” the VVT. It just won’t work as designed. That can lead to other consequential issues over time…
I have seen many examples of owner’s manuals from other countries that show multiple oil viscosities approved for use in the same vehicle/engine sold in the United States.
There is no difference in clearances or variable valve timing. The difference is that in the U.S., the oil used during the fuel economy and emission certification process is the oil that must be listed in the owner’s manual.
Below is an example from another forum. The 1UR-FE engine is used in the 2010-2023 Lexus GX460 and 2010-2019 Toyota Tundra, in the U.S. only 0W20 is approved.
AI tends to fisagree with you. Ive used 0-20 for 90,000 miles and no problem. Europe is a mess so im not about to follow them.
I have used 0W16, 0W20 and 5W20 in my 1998 and 2000 Dodge (should be using 5W30).
What did AI say about that?
Well, AI says 5w-30 full synthetic would be beneficial over 5w-20 blend in my first generation Coyote.
Autozone has sales on Mobil one 0w-8 engine oils
Yeah, at $17.40 MSRP a quart it is expensive… lol
I just wish the dealer had sent me 5W-20 or 5W-30, or even 0W-16 and I would not think twice about using 1 quart (6.2 quart system, changing) over the next 6 oil changes, but that 0W-8 just makes me a little too nervous to run that thin of oil with my engine not being designed to run that thin of oil… ugg
Got it on market place for sale (or trade for 0W-20) and have 170 clicks but zero bites… lol
Genuine Toyota is Mobil-1. My wife’s newer (2023) Toyota Crown recommends 0w-8. The EXACT SAME ENGINE in other Toyota models recommend 0w-16 so that’s what I’ve been using for oil changes. The price today for 0w-8 is the same as 0w-16
The parts website for my local Lexus dealership notes all of their various varieties of motor oil as “not available”. I assume that they are conserving their supply for the service department, rather than selling the oil at the parts counter.
What about the PA dealership that sold you the Lexus?
When I get a chance, I’ll check. But, I don’t actually need to buy any oil. I bought a quart of Mobil 1 0w-16 four years ago, and I still haven’t needed to add oil between changes.
Did that dealer offer online engine oil sales in the past?
The majority of the oil used by the service department is stored in bulk tanks.
That dealer also does not offer automatic transmission fluid, coolant or windshield washer fluid online.
A couple of years ago, I saw a guy buying a quart of oil at their parts counter.
In the Lexæ RX350h I do as non-existant manual suggests. (As registered tree-hugger and Greenie, glad thathey save trees using less paper.)
Mobil1 0W-16 Full Synthetic 5-qt containers cheaper at Walmart.
After ~100k change to 0W-20 from then on. (Mobil1 has 75,000-mile “High Mileage” oil.)
Has worked well - as far as I can tell.
I deal with multiple online Toyota dealers to buy my oil and other Toyota parts. no issues up until 6ish months ago, now most have stopped shipping oil but can still be picked up at the dealer bought from, but I just looked and most all are showing some oils being unavailable to buy…
Funny thing is I have not been able to buy a case of oil using the case part number in 1.5 years roughly, but when I order 6 quarts of oil it comes as a case… lol
