So several months ago to celebrate winning the war a 3rd or 4th time, I decided to stock up on 0w20 oil since word on the street was it was going to be in thin supply and prices going up.
I bought out several Walmarts and went even further to buy out some 0w30 oil. I really want to use this in my Tahoe with the lifter eating 5.3l Ecotec3.
My plan is to run 0w30 for the rest of the warmer weather then put the sewing machine oil in for the winter.
GM has admitted that thicker oil is better by changing the spec in the 6.2l engine debacle.
Its funny 30 years ago 5w30 oil was laughably thin, now its a good thick oil.
I would not go thinner than 5W30 in any engine, regardless of manufacturer recommendations. Manufacturer recommendations are based on meeting CAFE requirements, and making sure the engine lasts through the warranty period. They aren’t based on maximizing the life of the engine. That’s an important distinction.
Sorry i just dont buy it. Ive been using 0-20 in my acura for 90k. No problems. No oil usage, etc. use what is recommended. Either ford or gm changed their specs though due to bearing failure or something but didnt seem to solve it.
I think the lifter problem is due to the cyl deactivation so deactivate that.
Was that a newer attempt at variable displacement?
I’m old enough to remember GM’s “V8-6-4” project from the '70s, employed in upscale models like the Eldorado and the De Villes. Words such as “nightmare” were used to describe its reliability and repairabilty.
Yes, AFM or active fuel management would either run in 8 or cylinder mode with the same cylinders always being deactivated.
Ater 2018 or so they switched to DFM or Dynamic fuel management and it will run on anywhere from 8 to 2 cylinders with any cylinder able to be deactivated.
It is almost seamless and does improve mileage at the cost of the transmission torque converter. The lifters fail even if you deactivate the cylinder deactivation. To eliminate the possibility you habe to take the engine apart and replace everything with traditional parts.
I like the idea of cylinder deactivation, if I am loafing down a slight grade why not run on 2 cylinders. If I want to goose it let all 8 cylinders rip!
Yeah, those early GM attempts were supposedly a comparative disaster, being as vacuum command was involved, vs today’s engine control modules that can process thousands of thoughts per second.
Well at this point I have one car that will last forever, the old Caprice which is arguably one of the last forever cars Chevy made. I would love to find a 97 camry in good condition. Back before Toyota ruined reliability with water oil and direct injection.
I sold my 2014 Highlander with OVER 240k miles and ZERO engine issues. Wasn’t burning a drop of oil between oil changes. First few years I used the recommended oil weight of 0w20. Then I switched to 0w30.
0wX - is better here in the north east. Far better for the engine at startup - especially when we take ski trips to the white mountains and have seen mornings at -30.
It’s still around. My Vette has Active Fuel Management (AFM) which will shut off 4-cylinders during light load (cruising). But I have to switch to ECO mode in order for that to be active.
UPDATE. I couldn’t take it any longer. I put 0w30 in. After draining the 0W20 while engine was very hot in part die to our 100 degree weather, I got sick to my stomach after seeing how the oil flowed out like water at temperature when I drained it.
I put 0w30 and after 500 miles everything is A-OK and I really believe the engine is a tad quieter.
0w20, 0w8 or whatever it is exists for one reason, that is to get a slight but better on fuel economy. What do we save when running water in the engine causes it to blow up?
