Stolen - How to DELETE or REMOVE keys on 2011 Outback?

Hello, I own a 2011 3.6L OutBack. It is equipped with remote start (which I installed/ Factory components. I also purchased a Panasonic Toughbook loaded with the SSM3 & SSM4
Using that tool - I registered a couple of keys which I purchased (since my used Outback came with only one key…)

Anyway - YESTERDAY - I had a bunch of stuff stolen from the gym locker I was using (because I hadn’t LOCKED it!); which included the keys to my outback. The thief stole my wallet from the car and some other stuff but thankfully didn’t steal the car…

So, I have 5 or six keys for the outback; One with the remote starter transmitter; and a couple with the door lock/unlock buttons (which is the style the thief has…) etc.

I am fully capable of using the Panasonic ToughBook & SSM3 software to make keys NOT start the car (Immobilizer). But for the life of me; no matter how many times I register the keys I have; or just register ONE key over and over - I can’t get it to NOT let one of the keys with the unlock buttons to not open the door!

So, I have made it so if the Thief decides to show up - he can’t start the car - but he can still open it very easily. With no alarm going off. AND his remote start will still work…

How the… Does anyone know how to DELETE a Key?? I purchased (when I bought the car - some extra already cut keys; which I Programmed to the car! I did that… and I am fairly certain that when I got those keys - they unlock buttons didn’t work before I registered them to the vehicle. But NOW, no matter what I have so far tried; I can;t get an UNREGISTERED key to not be able to open the door!! {Adding on 6/11/18 - I have since realized that the keys which we purchased had to be CUT - so a Locksmith cut them; and a locksmith registered them with the vehicle and dealt with the buttons…}

Anyone know what I’m doing wrong; or how to get this done?? This is not a “Smart System” as Subaru calls it - since I have no push button start; and must insert a key into an ignition switch…

Maybe if I remove the remote start (which I installed) that will ‘kill’ the one the thief has (attached to the vehicle key he stole) - but I also really want to get that damn unlock button on his key not to work… and I haven’t been able to do that with the keys which are in my possession even though I can easily UNREGISTER them with the Immobolizer - so that they can’t start the car! The one the Thief has - will NO LONGER start the car - but the remote start will still work that he has in his possession; and he can Open the car door - WITHOUT the car alarm going off! If I could delete the key so the unlock buttons wouldn’t work - than he would set off the car alarm if he used the key to manually unlock the door!

Anyone know how to do this? Or where in the software to go?? Under what heading? I’ve searched the SSM3 help files; and read a bunch of Subaru documents…

Thanks for any help!

Change all lock cylinders and ignition lock…problem solved!

Cars can only have so many authorized and programmed keys

Do you happen to remember the numbers of the keys that were stolen?

Considering the thief could be a member of your gym, I’d say there is a fair chance he/she will try to gain access to the car, because the keys probably have a Subaru logo on them, and there’s only so many Subarus in the parking lot at one time

To play it safe, why don’t you go to the dealer and ask them to “delete” every key except the one in your hand?
Show them your registration and explain the situation. Might even want to change the exterior door lock cylinders.

Considering the thief has your wallet, he/she knows where you live, if your driver’s license was in there. Thus, he knows where the car will be overnight. And there may be an attempted break-in during the night. It would still be criminal, but nobody’s going to bat an eyelash if a person successfully uses the key fob to enter a car Everybody will assume it’s the rightful owner.

I agree there are times for DIY and times to just turn it over to a dealer. It probably will even be covered by insurance under the theft provision. I also would change the physical locks on the door. It doesn’t take much to swap the tumblers so that the keys won’t work but also need to wipe the electronic codes out.

The keys don’t have numbers on them… He stole One key fob with the “Panic button, and unlock the trunk and unlock the doors; and lock the vehicle buttons…” Plus this also had a remote start transmitter attached to the key ring…

If there is a way to DELETE the key - than he could just open up the door - but the alarm would go off… Right now his key WON’T start the car, he can start it with the ‘remote start’; but as soon as you open the door, or put it into gear - that will shut off…

Changing the one lock and the ignition switch is an option - but probably expensive. And I would think a way exists to DELETE the damn key! And if no one has a way to do that - yes I will be shortly talking to the dealership…

I know the keys aren’t physically numbered . . .

But they are numbered, as far as the drive authorization system is concerned

It needs to know why key is being

I think a trip to the dealership is in order

I can’t imagine they’ll charge more than about an hour labor to delete the stolen keys

Even if you get the unlock button on his key disabled, can’t he just put the key in the lock and unlock it.

He’s a thief, he don’t care if the alarm is going off while he reaches in and grabs your laptop, he’ll be gone before you can get up and look out the door.

I hear car alarms going off all the time, no one around where I live pays attention to them.

Take the car to a locksmith. He should be able to delete or add as many keys as you like, and probably be far cheaper than the dealer.

Not trying to rip off insurance companies but if insurance is paying the bill, why not take it to the dealer? When I had to have key fobs programmed with the auto start feature, it was a dealer only process. I suspect though that it would be home owners coverage and not auto policy that would cover a theft from the locker.

OK - figured this out/ read how to do this; and got it done! Still haven’t dealt with the Remote Start; but I will get to that. Been running around dealing with some of the other stuff which I lost with the wallet being gone… works id’s… talking with a police detective, etc.

Anyway - the Vehicle Immobilizer registers with the chip in the key. The key ‘buttons’ are a separate function - radio transmitter code which the vehicle recognizes. We called a couple of locksmiths, a few dealers; and all locksmiths feigned ignorance (yeah, right); told me they could try it for of course a fee; some stated you couldn’t do it… and the dealership states the tech’s do it… Yes they do… and the tech is not coming to the phone to look it up and answer it for you…

So in the 2011 Subaru Outback Service Manual (G2470BE_V32) - under the heading “Security and Locks” - they have a subject heading of: Keyless Transmitter; on ‘page’ SL-76 or 5,232 out of 5,950 pages in this pdf… [Subaru plays fast and loose with the term “keyless” since mine is NOT ‘keyless’ as stated when working with the immobilizer for the transponder chip; and whether it is ‘smart’ or not… All questions which one is asked - in the SSM3 software…]

Back to the Service Manual:

They have two slightly different sections right together - identified by the shape/style of your KEY - so you have to make sure that you are at the correct spot. Mine was SL-76

The 2011 Subaru Keys with buttons have an EIGHT digit code. All numbers; no hyphens or spaces. Just 8 digits. The keys originally come with a TAG on the outside with these 8 digits; but you can open up the key; pop out the plastic control box; separate them like you were going to change the battery; and with a good flashlight and a magnifying glass - make sense of the 8 digit code.

So get your key 8 digit codes (it can take a total of 4); go on out and plug in the diagnostic cable; hook it up to your Densi SDI which you connect to your computer; start it all up; activate the SSM3 software; and have a key (doesn’t even have to be registered with the immobilizer OR have buttons) in the ignition which you turn ON the car… not starting it - just turning it on.

Select your vehicle (I have to go to “all others”); and then “Each System Check”; go to “Integ. Unit Model” - and then “Keyless ID registration”

From here - you can enter a key’s 8 digit code. If you have only one key - you could enter it four times if you want to cancel all out… You can enter false codes… You are allowed to enter FOUR 8 digit codes. Before 4 you can quit after entering a code… At FOUR - it quits for you - after the 4th entry. You than back yourself out of the software; and shut everything down… and you are DONE! Your keys with buttons will now operate your locks, etc; and keys which did not have the 8 digit code entered for them - will NOT work the locks or the PANIC button etc.

So, I now have 3 keys all of which the buttons work; and the thief has my 4th key - but he can only get into the car by breaking a window; or inserting the key manually into the driver’s door; etc. Any attempt for him to get into the car - sets the Alarm Off, and his key won’t start the vehicle.

I appreciate people stating to possibly change the locks; but changing the door lock, and the ignition lock (have to remove the steering shaft; and put it into a Vise); and the glovebox - is just not cheap. If someone wants into the car - they will get in. But at this point - the alarm will go off… And if I had paid the dealership to change those locks (NOT cheap) - I still would have had to deal with the key button issue… because without removing his 8 digit key code - he still could just push a button - and the doors would open!

Anyway - the above might help someone else in the future. But you do need the SSM3; or that Chinese forgery unit (not nearly as expensive - but I don’t know how well it works) - to pull this off.

Please forgive the long post; and have a great day!

Are you sure?, every car I’ve had with factory alarm, using the key in the door lock disables the alarm.

How are you supposed to get in your car if the battery in the key is dead without setting off the alarm?

You’re 200 miles from home, in the middle of the desert, no cell phone service, it’s just you and one key and the battery in your key is dead.

Well I’m impressed but I still think the locks should be rekeyed. It really is simple to pull the cylinders and change the tumblers. I’ve done it for the car and the house. On the steering column, there should be a little hole that you stick a wire in and with the key, the cylinder comes out. Then you get the keys cut for that configuration. That should be in the book where they give you the number and the height of the key bumps to cut the key. Whatever, up to you.

For a 2011 Sub Outback - YES - I am sure… My lovely wife initially demonstrated it! For your specific vehicle - go ahead and try it out. Go out to your vehicle; and lock it either by pressing the door lock button and shutting the door; or pressing your lock button on your key… Wait for one minute for the alarm to ‘set’. Insert the key into the driver’s door lock… & unlock your door!

This is actually one of the dealer pre- delivery tests to the vehicle. However - per your desert scenario; and being screwed - the 2011 Outback’s alarm is supposed to STOP after 30 seconds of blaring - AFTER you shut the door. So if you open the door manually using the key (no buttons) - the alarm will go off. Close the door and it will quit after 30 seconds. Or press the unlock button on your key and if the battery is good - the alarm will stop when pressed. The following is Quoted from page PI-11 (Pre Delivery Inspection)

  1. Unlock the door using the inner lock knob and open the door while the alarm system is in the set mode. Check if the alarm condition happens (horn sounds continuously, hazard light blinks, security indicator illuminates). Check if this condition lasts for a maximum of three minutes or until the “UNLOCK” button of the keyless transmitter is pressed.

The alarm condition will cease in 30 seconds once the door is closed.

It is a “high security” type of key - and does not have bumps… We wanted a “Valet” key for the vehicle - for the Outback that means a key which does not open the glove-box. No locksmith was able to cut one for us… Every key they could make - would also open the glove box. We had to special order the ‘valet’ key from the dealership - and they needed to look up some damn special code… We do now have a working ‘valet’ key - but a locksmith was not able to cut it. No bumps, etc. are described in the Service Manual. But the huge chore of how to change out the entire lock and get that recognized by the security system is in the Manual.

But, I don’t know for certain. A locksmith might have been able to do it; but given my experience trying to get the ‘valet’ - I kind of doubt it.

That test is if your inside the vehicle already or the window is open and the alarm is set.

I still say if you’re outside the vehicle, the door is locked and the alarm is set, putting the key into the door lock and turning it shuts off the alarm.

Some manufactures began omitting the disarm switch from the lock cylinders on vehicles that come standard with remote keyless entry more than a dozen years ago. Drivers use the remote to unlock the door, omitting the switch and wiring saves money.

If the battery is dead you can still unlock the door with a key, after connecting a jumper just push the unlock button on the remote.

For vehicles towed in with lost keys the alarm will sound when opening the door with a new un-programmed key but will usually quiet after turning on the ignition, the new key can then be registered without the noise.

It is exactly the same situation as if you were outside and inserted the key. The manufacturer is just making sure everything is working correctly before delivery of the vehicle. Door is locked; alarm is set. Unlock the door MANUALLY (using a key or from the Inside) and OPEN the door - and the alarm goes off… Not sure what year your car is… go and try it. Takes less than 2 minutes. And as I said - my wife was very surprised when she unlocked the door manually using the key… and the alarm went off!

He is referring to the little button battery INSIDE the key. The vehicle will not start if the alarm is going off… so he wonders what happens if he’s in the desert; and the battery in his key fob dies… Not the vehicle main 12V batter - which would take a jump…

But, if you open the door Manually - the Alarm will go off… shut the door and it will go off in 30 seconds… And after the alarm is OFF (armed but not shouting) the vehicle could be started using a registered key…

In a case where the remote battery is dead the alarm will stop after the ignition is switched on in every case that I have experienced.

On both of my cars, 2010 Elantra, 2011 Ford Ranger, with factory alarms.

From the inside doors closed and locked and alarm set, wait 30 seconds, open the door from inside and alarm sounds and lights flash.

From the outside doors closed and locked and alarm set, wait 30 seconds, insert key into lock and turn it then open door, no alarm sound or flashing lights.