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Starting and Gas Flow

I have 1993 Honda Accord that will not start up again for 5 to 10 minutes after turning it off. The starter works OK bgut the engine won’t turn over. When it does start again it is a reluctant, farty start. Once running it drives fine. Is it gas flow or a sensor malfunction?

I have 1993 Honda Accord that will not start up again for 5 to 10 minutes after turning it off. The starter works OK but the engine won’t turn over. When it does start again it is a reluctant, farty start. Once running it drives fine. Is it gas flow or a sensor malfunction?

Please use clearer terms. You say the “starter works OK”, but you also say “engine won’t turn over.” It can’t be both, which one is it. Does the starter turn the engine over but it fails to start up, or is it that the starter doesn’t turn the engine over?

Turn over - starter rotates the crank-shaft.
Start up - Engine runs (crank-shaft continues to rotate after the key is released).

It could be none of the above. What kind of maintenance was done/skipped. I think about ignition systems and trying to get the codes read if you can find some place that can still read a 93.

How do you know the starter works OK if the motor “won’t turn over”?

Change the spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter. Piece of pie.

You have a choice of using the “tune up” approach which may or may not cure what ills your car or using a diagnostic approach which will cure what ills your car.

Hondas and Acuras had problems with the fuel pump relays under the dash…If the car was parked in sun and heated up, the printed circuit boards would warp a bit and until the car cooled inside, you could crank the engine, but the fuel pump wasn’t working. Way to check is to turn ignition switch to on, not start and listen to see if you get the fuel pump to hum…have someone listen at the rear of car. If it is this, it is very easy to replace, two plugs and remove from center of under dash on Accord…on Acuras its on the left drivers side. About a $50 diy plug and play part.

You would do the tune up type of stuff to rule out the simple stuff as a cause, or a contributor, of the problem before going into the more difficult, more complex, “diagnostics”. What if you did those diagnostics and found out that the cause, or a good part of it, was lack of proper tune?
Who is saying that performing a tune up will fix the problem? No one is saying that.

Redtag is correct the main relay is most likly the problem I have replaced many of them for the same problem

Yes, the PGM-FI relay (under the dash) can cause intermittent starts, and intermittent stalls. It does this by intermittently cutting power to ignition. This, relay usually does this in the summer when it gets hot inside the car.
The distributor can, also, cause intermittent starts and stalls, because it can cause a no-spark condition. There are three components inside the distributor which are concerned with controlling spark.
With a distributor problem, if the PGM-FI relay hasn’t cut power to the ignition coil and ICM, there will, still, be a fuel supply. So, fuel pressure, and fuel injection action (eg. 'NOID Test Lights) would be checked to determine which is at fault.