If pins A7 and A8 are tied together internally inside the ECU I don’t see how you could have continuity to pin 1 of the relay on one pin and not the other. That doesn’t make sense to me. If there is a grn/blk wire on pin A7 and pin 1 of the relay and they don’t show connection to each other by testing then run a seperate jumper between them and then see if the pump works.
Yeah it weirded me out that I got continuity on one and not the other. I’ll try jumping it and see what happens.
So I finally had time to test the continuity between A7 and the green/black wire on the main relay and was able to get continuity this time (had to test it from the back of the ECU connector). I then finished the voltage tests and the A7 to A23 test showed .02 volts which is the proper range). The interesting thing was when I turned the ignition on to test the voltage there I heard the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds so I cranked it and it fired right up. Pulled the testing leads out from the back of the ECU connector and it fired up again. I think I might just have had a loose connection at the ECU harness and pushing the test lead in there pushed it back in where it should have been. Crazy stuff!
I’m cautiously optimistic that I can start driving it for the next couple weeks and keep something handy for pushing that connector back in if it should work its way loose!
I also noticed when I opened up the ECU that it had a couple leaky capacitors…as long as it’s running fine I’m not going to concern myself too much with it but I may keep an eye out for a used ECU on ebay just to keep around as a backup in case the circuit board deteriorates.