So, I’m 17, just went halvsies buying a 2007 sequoia with my parents. The stereo is fine, except the volume knob is veeeeery finicky, doesn’t like to turn down no matter which way it is turned, or how fast/slow. Wondering about retrofitting the stereo with something Bluetooth, with some thumping subs in the back, I gotta plenty of room for em . Just wondering how much parts + labor would be for something like that in the Tulsa area, and if there’s any way I could do it, or some of it myself without making any thousand-dollar-mistakes. Keep in mind, I’m 17, almost no experience with cars and how they work. I like cars just fine, but have no idea about doin this on my own. Any advice for a blossoming basshead? Thanks guys.
I am sure there are plenty of Audio shops in Tulsa that can give you guidance . As for price a resonable guess is from 100.00 to thousands . Also your parents are the ones to be asking about modifications to their half of this vehicle .
My advice is that if the stock stereo is defective, you should replace it with a working used stock stereo from a junkyard. It will be plug-and-play (no cutting/splicing wires, etc) and it will work well with the OEM speakers, steering wheel controls, and will light up when you turn on the headlights. We frequently receive posts here from people who (incorrectly) installed an aftermarket stereo, and now their battery goes dead when the car isn’t driven, or they have problems with the security system, etc.
Also, “thumping subs” are for fools. What you want is high-quality speakers which deliver excellent sound quality–not a bunch of boom and rattle which says “hey look at me”. When I pull up to another car with thundering bass, to the point that it makes my own car shake, and drowns out the sound of my own stereo, it doesn’t impress me–it makes me think that person is a GD fool. At least I only have to deal with the noise pollution until the light turns green; the idiot driving the car with thundering bass is probably ruining their own hearing.
Spend some time on Crutchfield’s web site, lots of info and options
No way I’d put a junkyard stock stereo in as a replacement. Wiring a head unit is generally pretty easy. Wires are color coded and there aren’t that many. If you order from Crutchfield, you can get a wiring harness, directions, etc for very little. Cost is going to vary a lot. The thumping bass isn’t my thing, but if you want that you’ll need an amp too. I think if you intend to do a head unit, amp, and subs, you’re probably better off letting a pro install it. If you’re just doing a new head unit to start out, I’d DIY that. There are YouTube videos available that show head unit replacement on your specific vehicle, if you’d like to see exactly what you’d be getting into.
I don’t want to be obnoxious with the bass, just want to be able to feel my music rather than just hear it. I agree that bass is overdone alot, I don’t want to be one of those people, I just want the capacity to drown out the rather large amount of road noise. And occasionally turn it up on the highway with friends.
Would it be prudent to just upgrade the stereo for now and later install subs and amp, or would it be easier to both now?
Done, there are some decent Bluetooth options around the $100-$150 area on Crutchfield. Nothing too fancy, just want Bluetooth input.
The thing is, I don’t want to just replace the current cd/cassette/FM/AM setup with the exact same unit, I would very much like Bluetooth, which was definitely not a factory option in 2007.
For sure asking the parents, I’m the only one who cares about it, so I’d be the one paying for it. Also, $100-$1000s isn’t very helpful.
I don’t see an issue with doing the head unit first and then adding on as your budget allows. You might ask a shop to be certain, but I can’t see that creating a problem. I’ve never done an amp, subs, etc. So I’m not certain.
@JustTruckin You posted that you have a lawn service. If you do put this sound system in keep it turned down low when you go on your calls . Many HOA’s have noise policies .
It’s the perfect answer for the question you asked.
That costs depend on the brand and quality. If you look on crutchfield’s site, you can probably find head units that would fit your needs from a hundred bucks on up to $500 or more for the head unit alone. The same is true for the speakers, subs, amp, etc.
I’d stick with a brand name unit like Sony, Pioneer, JVC, etc. But you don’t have to get their most expensive model.
One thing that might come in handy with your lawn service, you could probably get a head unit with a backup camera. That would be sweet when hooking up that lawnmower trailer.
Start with the head unit. Buy quality but make sure the unit has outputs to feed the amplifier to power your sub-woofers. You can add that as your budget allows but get Bluetooth right away. Maybe even an Android head unit. Crutchfield can help from their website and they have a phone help line, too.
When you get to the point of adding subs, learn HOW to wire a large, switched, FUSED, 12V source with a good ground connection FIRST so your subs will work well, sound clean, not burn your car down, and turn completely off when you turn the key off!
and use good heavy wires too. and good speaker wires not the thin cheap stuff.
Car audio–just like home audio–can be had at various price points, with the sound quality very closely related to the amount paid.
Back in the '70s–when I was much more audio-oriented than I am now–I spent a couple thousand $$ on a home audio system, including a pair of really good Altec-Lansing speakers. Around that same time, I was in a neighbor’s home, and he demonstrated his new stereo system–that he had bought for $100.
The sound quality was so bad, and so distorted, that it was almost beyond belief, but apparently his tin ears didn’t perceive that reality.
My neighbor’s boast was “I only spent $100, but I think it sounds like a $200 system!”.
My response was, “You know… it DOES sound like a $200 stereo”… but my sarcasm was lost on him.
I would start by trying to fix the erratic volume control. Take out the fuse, then spray a little electronic parts cleaner into it (DeOxit is good brand) and turn it through its range of motion several times. Replace the fuse. Better?
This could work better if you can remove the front panel of the stereo and expose the volume control, but even spraying from the front might work.
It should be possible, but do a little more research before embarking on this project. On some newer vehicles the radio is an important part of the in-vehicle computer network. If so, the replacement radio must have network compatible hardware and software. If it doesn’t, basic vehicle functions might not work.
I’m with texases. Spend some time on the Crutchfield web site. It will give you choices with what fits and the have useful install tips. Don’t overlook that your sound will only be as good as your speakers.