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Replaced quick strut makes a 'boing' spring noise only from one side (Honda Odyssey)

Just replaced my front pair of struts on my 2011 Honda Odyssey with Monroe Quick Struts (right side:
172560), along with inner/outer tie rods, and the stabilizer bar links. The repair went mostly fine, minus having to cut off the stabilizer bar links. The next day I took the car in for an alignment and asked them about the ‘boing’ spring noise that I am hearing from the front right side when turning at slow speeds. My mechanic (a local Midas shop) said that the installation looked just fine and there’s nothing obviously wrong with what I had done. They were willing to further diagnose any issues at $129/hour… I declined for now. Stability and control is excellent, including hard braking, and the noise is only audible when turning into a parking spot or backing out of my driveway. I’ve found a video that illustrates the issue HERE, and a potential fix to lubricate the coil spring ends.
At this point I’ve ordered a replacement strut just in case AND have recently greased the top and bottom of the spring and containing/surrounding rubber parts. At this point, with very little driving on it post-grease, there’s still no change. Do you think this just a ‘break in’ thing? That being said, the left side doesn’t do this at all. Perhaps a bad bearing (see HERE), or something else? I’m curious to hear your thoughts. I know that many of you are specific to a brand, but please have your comments be constructive and helpful. Thank you for your time!

Take it to a alignment shop not midas. I would not allow midas to open my hood.

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Thanks for your reply. I’ve been going to them for years for varying repairs and maintenance, and while you might not have had luck with them in your area, I trust them and they’ve been very helpful and honest with me in the past. I’ve adjusted my original question.

I wonder if they failed to install the rubber spring isolators when the strut was assembled.

If they did, the spring would be able to rotate on the lower spring perch and/or the upper strut bearing when the wheel is turned.


Let’s clarify something . . .

Who installed the parts . . . ?

You . . . ?!

I’m asking because your post states that YOU ordered a replacement strut

That leads me to believe maybe you sourced and installed the parts yourself . . . ?!

If so . . . who’d you order the parts from?

Amazon . . . ?

rockauto . . . ?

I’m asking because some vendors are easier to deal with, especially when there are issues with the parts themselves

Sorry for any confusion. I installed these parts, all purchased from Rock Auto. I don’t want to go through the whole strut replacement again if I don’t need to, but their warranty replacement process seems easy enough to just get that started. It can always go back, unused, if necessary. Should I just replace the quick strut with the warranty replacement, or is there something more simple that can be done? Is the greasing fix actually a thing or is something inherently flawed with the Quick Strut? I haven’t done this enough to know what to typically expect. Thanks!

If you’re talking about item #4 (isolator) from your pic, I’d say that it’s there from looking at it. Out of the box the strut appeared fine, minus having the rubber boot weirdly twisted. Also, there’s a similar amount of exposed threading at the top of the completed strut. I’d think you’d need far more tightening of the nut
(if even possible) if they were missing a big part like the isolator.

First of all, compare the monroe quick strut with the old part(s)

Anything missing . . . ?

I’ll assume everything was properly torqued . . . ?

Can you access the top of the strut, or is it under a cowl, access panel, etc.

Here’s an idea, but it’ll require a helper

Let the engine idle

Put your hand on various parts of the quick strut assembly, while your buddy is slowly turning the steering wheel back and forth, end to end

Obviously, you’re going to be very careful not to get your hands messed up while this is occurring

Not all springs come out of the manufacturing process perfectly. There is a lot of variation. Sometimes that variation can cause a ting, or tap or boing. Maddening when it happens, it won’t wear in. Since you bought the assemblies I’d return that one for another.

If you had just bought the strut and assembled it yourself, I’d say take it apart, make sure all is in place and put it back in.

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Gotcha. It was a completed assembly, and I have the replacement on the way. I guess I’m just gonna have to spend a couple hours removing and replacing it again. At least this time, I know the stabilizer bar links shouldn’t be impossible to remove.

$75 question: Do I need to get another alignment?

Thanks for your help!

I would say a new alignment will likely not be needed. Install the part and see if it drives ok and the steering wheel is straight.

Received the replacement strut from Rock Auto and installed it, start-to-finish, in about 90 mins. The ‘boing’ noise seems to be gone, though I’ve only put on about 1 mile of test driving. No greasing anything, etc. and the alignment appears to be just fine. I’ll get it back onto the road for more miles and make sure it all feels and sounds good, but here’s hoping! Thanks for the help and suggestions!