I have a 2011 Santa Fe with torn inner CV joint boots.
It seems the consensus is to forget the split-boot repair, let the joint deteriorate, and then replace. I’m pretty sure my boot tear is a new development - little time for contamination. And then, at 240,000 miles the car is near the end of it’s life cycle !
My question specifically is: has anyone used the type of split boots where the seem gets glued together? Does the bond last ?
Thanks in advance for reply !
As you wrote, “at 240,000 miles the car is near the end of its life cycle!” So I imagine that the Glue on the " Split-Boot Repair" would probably outlast your Santa Fe…
Split boots are a waste of time and money.
You can never completely clean the old grease/debris out from the CV-joint before installing the split boot, so the CV-joint starts making noise a short time later.
It’s cheaper to keep driving the vehicle with the torn boot until the CV-joint starts making a racket while turning, and then replace the half shaft.
Tester
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Even with a new tear, you have been driving with it slinging (loosing) grease and damaging the inner joint… I agree that most of the time a split boot is a waste of time…
However, the inner cv joint will tend to vibrate under acceleration, sometimes harder acceleration and going up hills, it is the outer cv joint that tends to click when turning into parking spots etc etc…
At 240K, I would ride it out until you start getting the vibration and either trade the vehicle or replace the axle assembly, it might last a month, or a year or two…
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Hey Dave,
I appreciate your insights on what symptoms to expect
when the inner joint begins to fail, Thanks.
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I only tried a split boot once and it didn’t work out.
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Diy’er me wouldn’t even try a split boot. I’d replace the boot or the entire half-shaft. I’d do the other side as well. I can’t speak to your Santa Fe’s inner boot, but not that big of a job for my Corolla’s outer boot. If your car is otherwise in good repair, suggest to repair the failed boot, and the other side, the correct way and be done w/it.
Folks here don’t always concur, but I think it is helps extend the life of the CV boots by cleaning off of the grit every now and then. I do that on every oil and filter change, using just a spray of water, and my boots seem to last 150k miles or more. Whatever you do, don’t spray WD 40 or anything else (like solvents) that can deteriorate rubber-like material on the boots. I made that mistake on my VW Rabbit thinking it would prevent water intrusion into the joints, and both front boots failed within just a few thousand miles.
Hey, thanks to all for your input. I guess I just drive until it fails and then buy some shafts !
Can you do the work? Can you install a new axle? Do you have the skills? Tools?
I would do the work myself;
I doubt any garage around here (north central Illinois) would do a split boot.
I could possibly do an axel, I’d have to look at some YouTubes and get a feel for it
You said that this thing is close to it’s service life. Why not just start looking and planing to replace it ? Even Kelly Blue Book that usually puts a higher value than other sites has this thing with a low value.
While the CV joints might give you warning that they going to fail if they break it will be most likely at the worst possible time.
I had one fail on the way to work one morning. Just had some vibration. Don’t remember if it was the inner or outer joint now. Made it to work but when I backed up to get into my stall, all the bearings fell out and had to push it the last ten feet.
I had already done a few axles so knew what I needed. 60 miles from home. Was able to tell wife everything I needed and she found everything and brought it to me, including old clothes. Put the new axle in that night in the parking garage and was home by ten. Just have the axle replaced at your convenience.
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You changed the axle in the parking lot after work and you had 60-miles to drive home and you were still home by ten?
Well then, this song is for You…
You don’t tug on Superman’s cape
You don’t spit into the wind
You don’t pull the mask off the old Lone Ranger
And you don’t mess around with Bing…
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Was this repair on a Beetle?
That will work as long as you don’t mine being stranded. The cv joints often give very little warning before they fail, then when they fail, the car won’t move no matter what you do. My only towing experience was for that exact reason, on my VW Rabbit. Happened in the boondocks of far-northern Calif, but fortunately there was a farmhouse nearby, and the folks there kindly phoned for a tow truck in my behalf.
On one of my rivieras. Not my first rodeo but it was in the underground garage, not a parking lot. So I had lights,heat, and the engineers compressor to use. Just like home.
If you drive 120 miles every day you get used to late night repairs.
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are you saying the car had just developed the vibration and then
shortly thereafter CV joints failed? Its a legit question. I’m used to wheel bearings that fail over several years time - this is my first CV joint issue.
And as for you wife who you gave the list of tools to and she found them all and delivered them to you, all I can say is you’ve got a true gem there !
I had probably ten miles to go when I noticed the vibration. Forward movement kept the ball bearings in place until I had to reverse to pull into my stall. Then the bearings dropped out of the torn boot. Your results may vary as they say.
Can’t seem to make this emoticon work , but if I could you’d be seeing a laughing crying face !
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