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Removing Battery - HELP!

I need to replace the battery on my Silverado, it has the side posts that screw in. The + post is corroded and I can’t get it out. I’ve unscrewed the - post, no problem but the + post is now chewed up because of my attempts to unscrew it. I doused it with seltzer water to try to clean but that didn’t help loosen the screw. Is there anything else I can do to loosen the screw?


If you are replacing the battery, why are you concerned about the post bolt? At this point, all you need to do is to cut off the bolt head and remove the cable. If you can’t do that, simply yank battery, +cable and all, and put in a new cable with the new battery. A new cable shouldn’t cost that much. Of course, if none of the above appeals to you, you could always resort to that magic tool called vicegrips.

Cut off the post bolt…what with? Sorry, I don’t usually work on cars, don’t own vice grips either, trying this with a socket wrench and pliers. I’ll see if I can figure out how to remove the cable and buy a new one. I’m out in the country to a run to town is last resort.


If you’re replacing the battery, remove the battery with the positive cables still attached. Just disconnect them at the other ends. Because you’re going to have to replace these cables anyway if they’re that corroded.


do you have a 4" grinder? if so just grind off the head of the post bolt. (just try to not get the terminal

Vice grips is one of man’s best friends. Being the country type, every car we have has a set in the tool box for that car. Don’t know about seltzer water, but next time try baking soda and regular water mixed, for get the cleaning reaction you need. Tester’s recommendations is best if it isn’t too hard to undo the other ends. Otherwise cut with hack saw or any available means and plan to buy replacement terminals or cables.

The boot is formed to fit around the bolt and terminal. Although the bolt has a really small head, it has a large shoulder. You may be able to pry the boot away from the bolt enough to get your pliers on the shoulder portion. Better grip there. If the boot is really stiff, some heat from a heat gun/hair dryer might soften it up enough to be pliable. Make sure the hood’s been up for a few minutes so the area is aired out before you do this. Low risk of igniting battery vapors with these tools but it’s little inconvenience for the extra insurance. If you get it loose, the bolt can be bought at the auto parts store. Just pry it out of the boot and clean up the terminal with some light sanding before installing the new bolt. Get the correct, ratcheting 6 point battery terminal wrench at the same time. They’re cheap, especially when you consider the consequences of not having one, right?

The battery terminal is made from lead so it’s fairly soft. The deposits from acid gas reacting with the steel bolt over time can make them hard to remove but it will come out. You could try to dissolve the deposits but I’d just horse it out being careful not to crack the case of course.

Its out! Got vice grips and after a few tries it finally came loose! The cable connects directly to the alternator, or so I was told, which underneath and in the middle of the truck…I wasn’t going there. Taking off the the boot did help btw TwinTurbo, got a better grip. New battery is installed, truck started like a dream and is now backed up to the new lambing shed (old chicken house) ready to receive rubble. Its a good day :)!

Thanks for everyones help, I really appreciate it!

Glad to see you got it fixed.

Now, before the connections start to corrode again, buy some dielectric grease (it’s cheap) and wipe a good amount all over the battery connections to keep moisture away.

I trust you wire brushed the cable connectors clean before you reinstalled them?

Do both battery cables at both ends, and don’t forget the ground connections.

This is just simple regular preventive maintenance I’m speaking of.

BTW, why did you have to replace the battery? Too old ? Lost electrical contact to the starter or just because the terminals were corroded?

Just to be on the safe side, I’d do a full load test on the charging system to ensure there are not more bad connections.

Yes, I also am including the alternator.

First problem is that it is a GM product. You’re going to have little problems like this until you are broke. The only way you are going to get that cable off is to use small Vice Grips (Because of the small area to work in), then everytime you need to take the battery out you’ll have to use Vice Grips. The corner convenience parts store will have “Top Mount” conversion kits, but you will still have that small bolt attaching to the top mount replacement. You’ll have to completely replace the cables (+ and -) to get away from that problem.