Ok so I removed the battery to get it tested, I took it in they charged it and tested it and battery was good.
Brought it back to the car put the battery back in and went to turn it on, put the key in the acc position and all the electrical came on lights, dash, radio so on. Turn the key to start the car and nothing no crank, no click… nothing.
What i have done/checked.
Checked fuses all seem to be good, checked relays all seem to be ok, changed out AC relay for crank relay no change.
Removed crank relay and hot wired between the pins and the starter cranks but engine will not start.
Put the relay back in and same thing turn key nothing. It seem like it is more of an electrical issue other then the starter not engaging because when I jump the leads the starter turns over but the car still not starting so either no spark or fuel, I am sure this is all an eletrical issue but don’t know what to check next.
Any help would be great.
Hey thanks for the response, I am not sure this is not the issue although if it is not sure how to fix that.
More info anything other then start is working on this car, radio AC fans, windows, Dash instruments and light, Headlights all work. As well the info from the trip indicators is still there (not sure if that makes a difference. All in all everything electrical works except for getting the key to send power to the starter and if there is a electrical or fuel issue with the motor.
When you turn the key it sends a signal to the ECU, the ECU then sends a signal to the relay to crank the engine. It also signals the ignition relay and the fuel pump relay.
If you don’t hear the pump and you can’t see any spark, maybe you damaged the ECU, or the ECU has lost power or maybe the ignition switch is bad. Measure the signal input when the key is turned at the start relay and then maybe the ECU.
So just a little update I have not been able to do the step above, hope to do them this weekend but what I did have time for and tried was taking a power probe to the fuses in the engine fuse box. Some of the fuse we ok but a bunch of them in the middle of the fuse panel did not show they had power. I pulled them and checked them all and didn’t see that they were burnt out, this also is the same section where the ECU, starter relay and crank fuse are all of them were dead. I did jumper the starter relay and the starter did crank. Thinking maybe I have a bad fuse box up front??
I did not check on the one behind the seat, I can do that tomorrow it just a whole bank of the ones in the engine fuse box that are not working but are not blown. I will check on those and see if same thing is happening back there. As far as hooking the jumpers up backwards, I pretty sure I didn’t I did try to jump it in the beginning but 99% sure I put them on the right way.
Sounds like you’ve got your work cut out for you! Based on what you’ve done, it seems like it might be an electrical issue with the starter. Have you tried checking the spark plugs and fuel lines to make sure they’re all connected? That could be the cause of your issue.
I was able to jump the starter relay and get the starter to turn over with no problem but it would not fire. Turn key and went to the trunk to see if i could hear the fuel pump working but heard nothing so thinking it is something electrical but bigger than no crank no start. BTW all the dash lights, power windows, radio, windshield wiper, etc… work.
Some fuses may not have any power applied with key in “off” position. That’s probably not indicating any problem. I’m guessing the “won’t crank or start” problem is described by Tester’s post above, various system initialization problems can occur when battery is removed in modern cars. For example one pretty common problem upon battery removal is the computer’s learned idle parameters get erased. When that occurs usually the car cranks ok, but won’t start. Sometimes the only solution, or at least the quickest solution, is to tow car to dealership. They deal with this sort of thing frequently, and know how to properly re-initialize all the systems.
If you feel lucky, you could remove the battery again, jump the two disconnected wires together for an hour. Then when you reinstall the battery it might initialize by itself. When re-connecting battery, good idea connect the positive wire first, and the negative (ground) wire second.
Repair shops have learned ways to avoid this from occurring in the first place. They have a big motivation, lose profits if they spend a lot of time trying to get their customers cars to start b/c the battery power got disconnected. You could ask your local repair shop what steps they take.