I have a 94 Park Ave. 3.8 engine.
Usually after a short drive, and several minutes with the car off, I return and it will not start. After a short wait it usually starts. Sometimes the wait could be several hours.
I checked during this interval and there was no fuel or spark.
The computer was replaced as was the ignition module, same result.
Sometimes when I first start it up the check engine light comes on and the car runs erractically.
So, I now just restart and it will run fine for a few days or a week.
Can anyone help please.
Thank you
Richard
How exactly do you know there’s no fuel?
If there is both no spark and no fuel, the crank sensor is probably the culprit. Go here: http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/ to find the procedures for reading the trouble codes stored in your car’s computer.
I assume that the starter is working ok and cranking the engine when the engine won’t start. You gave two very good clues to the problem by saying the fuel and ignition systems don’t work when the trouble happens. This usually points to a common point in the power source to those areas as the problem. These systems have a common power source coming from a pink wire on the ignition switch. I suspect if you replace the ignition switch this will fix the starting problem. I would verify that first before replacing the switch. It also could be just a bad terminal connection to the switch and may be repairable. The shop that replaced the other things should have caught this significant clue.
The running problem may go away after you fix the starting problem but if not, checking the codes may help solve that trouble.
I’m going to question the no spark and no fuel. I’ve been burned several times by mechanics saying that when in fact it was one or the other. Because the fuel pump only turns on for a few seconds unless waiting for ten seconds or so for the computer to re-set, you have to be careful in diagnosing no fuel pressure as the real problem.
Because of the heat related and intermittant nature, I would be suspecting the coil pack or fuel pump relay, pump etc. but not both. I’m not following how the crank sensor would have a heat related failure, then be ok again, but cause no driveability issues when it does run. But then I’m an amatuer.
Hi,
Thank you for your response.
I took off one of the fuel lines and used a spark tester while I had some one crank the engine.
Both were not working. The dlc has 16 pins and the man that replaced the ignition module said that it was the problem, he was wrong.
The biggest mystery is that this seems to only happen on very short drives, say 3 to 6 miles 95% of the times longer drives cause no problem.
Can I jump the 16 pin dlc?
Thanks,
Richard
I wouldn’t rule out the crankshaft position sensor. These can fail when they get hot and when that happens you’ll get no ignition or fuel injection operation.
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us80826.htm
Tester
Hmmm. Learn something here all the time. I stand corrected.