Remove a transmission to replace the clutch

I have a 1983 and I’m trying to remove the transmission to replace the clutch. I removed all the bolts but I still can get the transmission out. Is there a hidden bolt somewhere? I read the owners manual several times but I can’t find anything that would help me. HELP

You need a repair manual.

An Owner’s Manual will not have information such as you need.
Before you turn even one more bolt, you need to obtain a Haynes or Chilton repair manual.

Also, be sure that you have all of the specified equipment, such as an engine hoist, jackstands, etc.

Absolutely… don’t turn another wrench until you know the proper sequence. It might be wise to reach in from the top and re-install one of the bell housing bolts finger tight just for safety’s sake.

Do you have the engine suspended safely so that you can raise and lower the rear as needed? Do you have another cable or rod or chain to support the weight of the transmission? Are both CV axles out? Is the wheel off? Is the shift lever off and the speedometer and back up light connector off and clear? Is the clutch slave cylinder disconnected and set aside? Some transmissions require that a dowel be held in one side of the differential to prevent the spider gears from dropping out. If this is your first FWD clutch read the instructions closely.


This is FWD, right? I’d guess you really have to pull the engine/trans to do this, but get a manual. It’s a big job.

Calm down, take a deep breath, and go over it again. Odds are you missed one measly bolt somewhere and it’s easy to do, even for an experienced mechanic.

In some very rare cases the transmission splines may hang up on badly worn clutch disc splines and may try to prevent the trans from coming out but usually there will be a slight separation between the transmission and engine block in a case like this.

I went and looked at the manual and there is a warning about the side gears falling into the transaxel case after the axels are removed. It is recommended to use dummy plugs.This warning spanned almost the entire 80’s range of cars.

Some cars required setting the flywheel to line up ‘timing marks’ to allow for the bell housing to clear the flywheel. There are many model specific procedures that could cause you grief and expense. The consensus here is to get a good manual. As for the spider gears falling out, us a dowel about 8 inches long that is the same diameter as the inner CV joints splines and tie it in place with mechanic’s (bailing) wire.

What was “frog” trying to say when he tagged a “negative” word to your info? I know these short one word “you figure it out” responses are commom on many other internet sites (the kind where “young adults” have a greater presence) but it is very uncommon (and unhelpful) to do here.

I don’t have a clue, oldschool. My advice is worth every penny I get for it and I’ll refund double the money for any mistakes I make.