Doors will open with the remote but will not lock? Rear hatch lock works fine…
All doors, the driver’s door, or all but the driver’s door? A good guess would be one of the relays in the driver’s door module. If so, the whole module has to be replaced. (The driver’s door module controls all the locks.)
I would suspect the remote control is causing the problem. Do you have another one to compare it with? If two remotes are having the same trouble then I would check the receiver module for a problem.
Sorry, I assumed that it wouldn’t lock from the interior door switches either, but I see how it could have meant just the remote.
If the doors are locked the remote will open all of them. Nothing, including both remotes will lock the doors. There is a lock mechanism inside the hatch that works everything fine. This makes me feel that all of the lock activators are working. Where is the remote module?
Most likely in the driver’s door. Do the lock switches on the doors work?
Can you tell me where the receiver module is? Neither remote works. changed batteries.
Lock switches on both doors are not working. Confused why the rear hatch button is working fine. Locks and unlocks with no trouble…
Looking at some data it shows there is a seperate path for the doors and rear gate switch. It shows a pink/yellow wire going to the door ‘lock’ position switch. See if you have 12 volts there on the pnk/yel wire using a meter. If you don’t then there is a break in the lead. This lead has the relay coil in series with it to power. When the door lock switch closes it grounds the circuit and activates the relay.
Different control relays for the rear lock than the door locks. If memory serves, Ford used three relays for the doors at that time (99). This allowed them to control the passenger doors separately from the driver door. (This for unlock only, lock was always all doors at once. One relay was lock all doors, another was unlock driver’s door, and the last was unlock passenger doors. Other relays were used for the trunk or rear gate.) A failure of the lock relay out of the three, and you would lose the lock function on all doors. (The rear gate is a complete separate circuit with its own relays.)
I checked the pink/yellow wire and there is no power. Can you give me any suggestions where to start to find a break in the lead wire? With everything wrapped it is tough to get to anything. I thought there would be at least power to one of the wires going to the lock switch. I got no readings. There is a large connector next to the door hinges but I have no idea which ones are the door lock.
The info I looked at shows that splice number 337 ties the pnk/yel wire to several spots. The splice also ties to the door lock relay coil. You may get lucky and find the trouble is at the connection to the relay coil. Only a factory service manual will give the amount of detail you need to find the splice point. I would suggest you invest in one. Ebay is a good source where you may find one at a good price. Even if you had to go to the dealer for one they are worth every cent you pay for one.
Thanks for the help. Is the door lock relay in the door? Their is a lock activation device directly under the actual door lock mechanism. It works to unlock the door but does not work to lock the door. Could this be the defective part? I don’t see the pink yellow wire running to it.
If your door lock solenoid was defective, then all four went bad at the same time. That seems very unlikely. I still say the driver’s door module.
The solenoids that actually move the locks are in the doors. The relays that control the solenoids are mosy likely under the dash somewhere. You may be able to locate them by listening for them when you move the lock switch.
The info I looked at shows that the rear switch shares the same lock relay as the front switches so I think the relay is ok, since the rear switch works. The only difference is the wiring path they take. They both make connection at the relay but there is a wire splice shown for the front switches, before the wire ties to the relay coil, so the trouble may be there. The trouble may also be where they both are supposed to tie to the relay.
Something I missed earlier. The info shows that the relays for the locks are in the AUXILIARY RELAY BOX 2. If you have the owners manual it may show you where that box is or, perhaps Tardis knows where it is.
I downloaded the Owner’s Manual and didn’t see any mention of the Aux Relay Box 2 location. It does show fuse #18 in the dash fuse panel goes to the lock system. I suspect that the box is under the dash near the fuse panel.
I’m having the same problems with my explorer. The dealer wouldn’t tell me where the relays were. But were willing to fix it for a price. I searched the net and just found that the door lock / unlock relays are above the gas pedal, both have gray 3 wire connectors, the door lock relay has a pinkyellow wire and the unlock relay has a pinkgreen wire. If the relay goes bad the doors will not lock with the remote or the power door lock switches. Guess I’m going relay fishing to finally fix the problem. The net what a good resource for us backyard mechanics.
Thanks for all the help! Please let me know if the relay was the problem and if replacing it fixed everything.